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Re: First outing with a DSLR
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Good point, I'll try that next time I'm over there and compare. Quote:
He was miles away and I didnt have time to change the lens :( It was the closest I could get with what was on there at the time. I took this from about 40 feet out of my office with the other lens:- http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t.../261209415.jpg And this from about 30 feet :- http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/t.../261209426.jpg I'm installing photoshop Elements on the pc at the moment so will have a play and repost. |
Re: First outing with a DSLR
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OR let the camera do the work and it'll work out the light levels and go for a lower aperture to boost the light on the subject (you just may not know it) ;-) |
Re: First outing with a DSLR
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Re: First outing with a DSLR
Nice squirrel however with the black bird I'd say the same.
"He was miles away and I didnt have time to change the lens" Forget the lenses for a minute we live in the 21st century :-) Is that the full sized photo? if so it's probably 3000 pixels on it's longest edge, so just crop to a 1000 and maintain the aspect ratio and then sharpen it once in your photo program and it'll look like the worlds best close up :-) |
Re: First outing with a DSLR
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Re: First outing with a DSLR
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Thats what I did when I started I still do it now that way. Especially if I'm not sure and I want to make sure of getting the shot I am after. |
Re: First outing with a DSLR
great photos SP alot better than my first effort, as fizz says the auto setting on the camera is great place to start, ive messed about loads with mine and still ended up on the base auto setting to get the best shot.
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Re: First outing with a DSLR
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Now for the explanation. DSLRs today have an enormous number of variables that need to be set in order for pictures to be taken. In the film days you had 3, maybe 4: film speed (and type), lens opening (aperture) and shutter speed. You would drop a roll of film into the camera, tell the camera the film speed (sensitivity to light, measured in ASA / ISO) or wait for it to read it off the DX codes in the "newer" cameras, and then set an aperture / shutter speed combination for a given picture situation. Eventually you'd need a couple of extra lens filters to correct colour balance or to tame contrast, but the basics would be just that. Nowadays you have ISO sensitivity (film speed), aperture (f/stop), shutter speed, white balance, file type, image processing (contrast / colour saturation / sharpening), focus area mode, metering mode, ... I'll stop now. What happens when you put your DSLR in Auto mode is the little computer brains inside it will "look" at the scene in front of it through a little sensor with a few hundred light sensitive points in it and try matching what it "sees" with presets it has stored in memory, then adjust settings it thinks will work best for the given conditions, a bit like a real pro would do. And herein the problem lieth: the camera is not a real pro, no two scenes are exactly alike, and most of the time the camera brain will choose completely different settings to what the "real pro" would do. What's more, the camera doesn't have a chance in hell to know what is going on in your mind. It might think you're aiming for a landscape shot when actually what you want is a picture of your girlfriend by the water line at dusk. Think of a car/bike with auto gearbox, auto-throttle and auto-brakes, with a very vague steering. You give it a general direction of where you want it to go, and it'll do the rest. Erm no. So take the camera out of Auto. "What?! And how the hell am I supposed to learn all that stuff all at once?!" You're not. Isolate a variable at the time. When on full Auto, the camera will set ISO, aperture, shutter speed, colour mode, etc etc for you. Take two pictures in succession with the camera on Auto and chances are if something changes in the framing, the settings will change too. Good luck getting home and trying to figure out why the hell the camera did it without any previous knowledge of why it might have done that... So it's up to you to tell the camera to change as little variables as possible at a time, and you do that by going semi-auto. As in the P (flexible Program), S (Shutter priority, Tv on Canon), and A (Aperture priority, Av on Canon) modes (M is full Manual, you can skip that one for now). Start off by putting the camera in P mode, where it will still choose aperture and shutter speed for you, but everything else will be in your hands (ISO sensitivity, white balance, focus mode, etc). Play with the settings that previously weren't available to you in Auto mode. Discover the new world of intentional photography. ;) And RTFM. Really, it helps. ;) And shout if you get stuck, the knowledgeable geezers around will step in to push you in the right direction. Oh, I almost forgot one thing... the camera won't know where to point itself, so all of this technical mumbo-jumbo is worthless if you don't have good framing and composition to start with... and there's no Auto setting that can save you there! :lol: |
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