Re: Riding an SV
 

Will one tooth on the rear really make that much difference? Could understand if it was maybe 3?
I'll have to look up the gearing on one of those calculators.

In any case - I've mainly had Singles and twins in my biking career. So you get used to having to keep the engine in a smooth zone within the rev's. Most bikes this seems like 3k plus. Although to be honest the SV400 feels smoother than most even as a V-twin. Esp compared to parallel twins. Singles are even worse. Especially big capacity singles. These vibrate like mad. DR350 used to shake the bike to bits.

I remember the first time I got on an inline 4. I just thought christ this is as smooth as a car when I was in my early twenties. It was great. Would pull from tick over and smoothly all the way to redline.
But it felt so bland and although yes it did so smoothly it just felt gutless for the same cc low down in the rev range.

I think with any bike / Engine configuration there's time to adjust and get your feel of them to get the best out of it.

Re: Riding an SV
 

Enough that Suzuki spec the Naked and S versions one tooth different. Supposedly the Naked was aimed more at commuting and city riding?

Re: Riding an SV
 

I completely understand that but I can't imagine overall it makes that much of an impact in the real world. I might be completely wrong mind.

I know in the past when I've dropped one sprocket tooth on the front its made the bike feel a bit quicker accelerating but at the cost of mpg and top speed.

Re: Riding an SV
 

As you are new to V-Twins and with the SV 90 deg engine design you get fantastic,"Engine Braking" so try and get used to using it when decelerating into bends and yes keep the revs above 3000 Rpm when moving.The engines like it :)

I love the feeling and engine sound as I come down from speed into a sweeping corner using Engine Braking :riding:

Re: Riding an SV
 

One tooth less on front sprocket is equal to 3 extra teeth on rear or about 7%. I can't imagine that one tooth up on rear would make enough difference ( about 2% ) to be noticeable. There is no point in top speed n todays crowded roads, so go lower geared and enjoy the flexibility and acceleration .

The AL7 has gear indicator on dash display which is useful ( and fuel gauge and 'miles remaining' display, if it is like car 'miles remaining' displays is is actually ' miles till you hit reserve' ).

Re: Riding an SV
 

The one tooth difference isn't something I chose. I just had what was on there when I got the bike and was happy with it.

Re: Riding an SV
 

I never worried about what gear I was in on a motorbike. Just up shift until there wasn't another gear. Drop gears as you slow down.

Took my dad a while to get used to that method in a bike. He was very much used to a car gearbox or H pattern. Meaning he could skip gears. It used to freak him out not knowing what gear he was in when he came to a island / roundabout. Always used to make me laugh as he tried to pull away in third...

Re: Riding an SV
 

You can upshift without using the clutch. Just ease off the throttle and upshift. I find it smoother and quicker than using the clutch. Don't try it on downshifts though. I locked the back wheel and was high sided on the only time I did it but was lucky there was no oncoming traffic. A friend did the same on a Honda. He was not so lucky as he broke his arm.

Re: Riding an SV
 

Thanks for all of your advice.
I figured out I do have six gears, cool.
I also now keep revs 3k plus, much nicer.
I bought a twin to have something different from the 4 cylinder that I’ve had plenty of, and I like it.
I’ve decided to go up three on the rear, sort out the ride, possibly rear first, and raise the bars.
Then I’m determined to do something to make it look cooler.
Ideas welcomed

Riding an SV
 

I’m pleased the missing gear showed up.

It would be much cheaper to get a one tooth smaller gearbox sprocket than a 3 tooth larger rear sprocket (which would achieve about the same thing: 1/14 is about the same as 3/47), plus you can probably avoid buying a new chain (it would be irritating if the chain would not stretch around a bigger sprocket, whereas cutting a link out for the smaller sprocket if you need to would be trivial). A gearbox sprocket only costs about a tenner and is an easy job to change.

This looks like the right bit: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F122081511910

If cost is no problem just ignore the above.

Good fortune.

A


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