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-   SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking (http://forums.sv650.org/forumdisplay.php?f=111)
-   -   Clutch not disengaging. (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=77674)

svrash 18-09-06 08:00 PM
Did you replace the steel plates too?

What colour, thickness are they?

Are they warped and blue?

Mesomorphman 18-09-06 08:35 PM
I did not replace the plates, but they did not appear warped. But I did not check to see what order I installed the plates in. Maybe I should check that. The rod IS moving, but it is just not moving enough to contact the pressure plate or the pressure plate is out too far for it too contact.

RandyO 18-09-06 09:40 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mesomorphman
I did not replace the plates, but they did not appear warped. But I did not check to see what order I installed the plates in. Maybe I should check that. The rod IS moving, but it is just not moving enough to contact the pressure plate or the pressure plate is out too far for it too contact.
loosen the lock nut, screw the rod in till it just makes contact and startes to disengage clutch, then back off about a žturn and tighten the nut

Stig 18-09-06 10:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mesomorphman
I did not replace the plates, but they did not appear warped. But I did not check to see what order I installed the plates in. Maybe I should check that. The rod IS moving, but it is just not moving enough to contact the pressure plate or the pressure plate is out too far for it too contact.
loosen the lock nut, screw the rod in till it just makes contact and startes to disengage clutch, then back off about a žturn and tighten the nut
Seconded. Really does sound as though the clutch is not adjusted correctly. Once you have adjusted the clutch properly THEN adjust the clutch lever free play.

northwind 18-09-06 10:37 PM
If the worm drive's gone, the lever feels heavy and pretty "crunchy", usually... You're pushing scraping metal instead of a ball-and-ramp. So, I'm kind of with the others.

Sid Squid 19-09-06 07:07 AM
Your new fully assembled clutch pack is, unsurprisingly, not the same thickness as the worn one, (which is good as there'd be no point replacing a worn one with another worn one), as the lifter only separates the plates by a few millimetres, a suitable adjustment is unlikely to remain if you were to change even one plate, let alone the whole friction set.

Do this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by I Previously
Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.

TSM 19-09-06 07:53 AM
I just asumed he would have done that.

Stig 19-09-06 10:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid Squid
Your new fully assembled clutch pack is, unsurprisingly, not the same thickness as the worn one, (which is good as there'd be no point replacing a worn one with another worn one), as the lifter only separates the plates by a few millimetres, a suitable adjustment is unlikely to remain if you were to change even one plate, let alone the whole friction set.

Do this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by I Previously
Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.
So, exactly how many times have you now posted that :?: :lol:

Mesomorphman 19-09-06 03:47 PM
Quote:
BigApe said:
is locknut & screw clutch adjuster under the clutch cover adjusted correctly, sounds like it's backed out too far and does not disengage the clutch Do this: Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.
Hey, that sounds exactly like it would fix my problem. The bike is at the in-laws so I'll have to wait 'till this weekend to see. Could you post a pic or tell me what I'm looking for on the manual parts fiche or something so I know exactly where this screw is I'm looking for? I would hate to get all the way down there and have no idea. (BTW, they're on dial-up still so it is a pain in the bazonka to look up info down there.)

Thanks for the huge response and all the help so far.

Sid Squid 19-09-06 05:04 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigApe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid Squid
Your new fully assembled clutch pack is, unsurprisingly, not the same thickness as the worn one, (which is good as there'd be no point replacing a worn one with another worn one), as the lifter only separates the plates by a few millimetres, a suitable adjustment is unlikely to remain if you were to change even one plate, let alone the whole friction set.

Do this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by I Previously
Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.
So, exactly how many times have you now posted that :?: :lol:
Very approximately 384,000 times.

Give or take a 5000 times or so.


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