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- - How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work? (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=133036)

Re: How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work?

The rear one's a piece of pi$$... take the RHS rearset off and grown some extra fingers :-P

The front one, that's a right tw4t. I've never been able to reset them with them in the engine because of the frame crossmember right above it. I keep meaning to get one of those ratchets with the rotating handle. I take front ones out.

Re: How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work?

Went to a couple of Suzuki dealers on Saturday afternoon and there only thought over the slight sound was the valve clearances. Not the Cam Chains as it is simply not noisey enough. Just as well I decided not to remove the engine!

Re: How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work?

Here's a nice writeup on clearance checks & adjustments.

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_valves/

Re: How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work?

I've said before and I'll say again, the bluepoof writups show one way to bodge and blunder your way through a job and write it as gospel. I'm not a fan.

Re: How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work?

Quote:

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris (Post 1945964)

I've said before and I'll say again, the bluepoof writups show one way to bodge and blunder your way through a job and write it as gospel. I'm not a fan.

Have you got a better online job-guide? I thought the blueproof how-to was a good effort.

Re: How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work?

Get a haynes manual.
They miss most important part which is to turn engine over by hand several times.

The valve one is not too bad, it's the brake ones that really make me cringe. And the carb one is pointlessly complicated.

Re: How does the SV650 cam chain adjuster work?

Quote:

Originally Posted by rictus01 (Post 1928060)

to reset you don't need to remove the tensioner itself.

take the central bolt out, using a small electrical screwdriver (careful not to damage the thread for the bolt), incert it and you'll feel it engage with a slot (you can't see it), turn the screwdriver clockwise (as in doing up a screw), you have to hold tension on it as it retracts the plunger against the spring inside, once it won't turn anymore, "sharply" withdraw the screwdriver and the plunger will "flick out" to the right length.

and that's al that is required, it's worth doing this at service time anyway as it keeps them from seizing up.

Cheers Mark.

Just trying to do this. I assume the screwdriver just goes in a tad further than the cap bolt? I can feel something there but it is a sod to get a long thin screwdriver in. Or am I not getting the screwdriver in properly? I'm treading very carefully here and it could well be i need to try pushing the screwdriver in more?

On the front cylinder its I only get about an 1/8th of a turn of what the screwdriver is hitting if that's it? Tried releasing it under tension but didn't hear any appropriate noises? Is it very obvious when it does ping back?