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Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
The height is set via a screw in 'top-hat', its then locked at that height by another bolt into the top.
The toolholder then drop on, the 'top-hat sitting against the cam activator which when turned both prevents the height from being changed and pushes out the toolholder to lock it solid. Toolchanges are a matter of seconds when you have the centre hight correctly set, even when it isn't its much easier to set the centre height as you just partly tighten the cam and twiddle the 'top-hat' until at the correct height, fully tighten the cam and then tighten the locking bolt. There are other QR designs that are even better but they are priced accordingly! Druid |
Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
Chris I wish I understood what you're talking about. I'd love to see the machine in action one day.
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Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
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Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
When it works you can make stuff like this replacement footpeg (the one on the right ;-) ):
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/...d50d2ffd65.jpg Druid |
Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
Progress, yarrrrr
So I moved it about a bit, stuck the drip tray on, got the base to within ballpark of level and bolted it down with some throughbolts http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1332/dscf4595m.jpg Then faced the raised part from that new compound slide base, drilled it and reamed it .500" on same center and it drops straight on. Just need to open the holes up a bit to line the T slots up and it should be more rigid than new :) http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/708/dscf4596d.jpg Only problem with it, I only have about 9mm of clearance from toolpost to center, so will need to machine the toolholder down a bit. Next bit, making a motor mount |
Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
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Have a read through this site, some cool stuff http://www.5bears.com/index.htm |
Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
Limited progress in last few days, lash together a quick motor mount.
Should be easily modifiable if I feel the need to get rid of the prehistoric lump of motor. Some lumps on motor mount plate run in the unistrut like tracks, and there's a bit welded on top to put an M10 threaded bar in to tension the drive belts. In other news, my shed is bloody FREEZING. It's too cold in there for the butane for the gas fire to vaporise out of the bottle :rolleyes: http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2927/dscf4738z.jpg http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/9382/dscf4737f.jpg |
Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
so is the motor going to sit in the wall mounted brackets as well as be attached to the lathe? is this to stop it rattling its self to bits or is that just how its meant to be done?
Maria must be really looking forward to the time u 2 get a place of your own and you wake up one morning and decide to "improve" certain things ;) looking good anyway pal (even if im still not 100% on what it is). |
Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
They are not wall mounted at all (would likely just transmit more vibration and noise to house, if there is any from cutting)
The horizontal parts of the L shapes are bolted directly to the headstock cover on the lathe with 2x 3/8" whitworth apiece. Originally the motor would have been mounted below and behind the headstock (bolted to the bed casting), but this would have meant moving the lathe out from the wall a few inches which would cost me valuable floor space! I'm hoping that the motor will not have any influence on the headstock in causing any flex/chatter. It is a pretty massive iron casting so I'm hoping not. |
Re: Some properly old school heavy metal
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Hehe. The amount of time he's spent on this bloody lathe, if he hadn't wanted one since he was 5 I'd have itchy feet by now :p Hope he makes something decent with it when it roars into life properly! |
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