Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Im looking to swap my bulbs out. I would like my lights to be as white as my sidelights for a reasonable cost and little work ie just swapping over whilst maintaining the integrity of the waterproof shrouds which fit over the normal bulbs

I have read all the older posts about bulbs on here.

Is anybody using these?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BREAKER-hal...WE75BB0AFJX1J9

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I'm using the Night Racers which give a touch more light and are designed to deal with the vibration and shocks from m/cycle fitment.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Are they bright white light

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=228411

Have a look at these - have these classiccarleds H4 LED bulbs in both our cars and my SV and they are great, much better than any filament bulb I have ever used. They have all passed MOT with LED fitted.

These bulbs are about 6500K, very white and are really noticeable in daylight, a real plus for a motorbike..

There are dimensions for bulbs on classiccarleds website, my SV is an AL7 with single headlight, your shrouds may or not fit, but on our cars it was easy to get the rubber seals around the bulb and then screw heatsink back on, the constant current module and plug are waterproof.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I read the post about the classic car led’s but didn’t want to spend that much but does the rubber shroud still fit when these bulbs are used?

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

As far as I can see, the "laser" bulbs are 4050K compared with 3900K for the "unlimited" version. Cooler than standard, but if you have cool white side lights, I think it'd still look warm.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I’d really like them to be as white as the sidelights, I’m not very hopeful without going to led’s

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

The rubber shroud to seal around body of bulb and back of reflector which leaves the 3 pins on rear of bulb sticking out to fit the normal 3 pin plug will still fit as you can screw off the finned heatsink fit the shroud and then screw heatsink back on and connect the inline 4 pin plug from constant current supply to bulb. The other side of constant current supply will plug into the normal 3 pin socket that fits onto rear of standard bulb. The 4th pin on cable between current supply and bulb is a temperature sensor that will reduce current supply if temperature of heatsink gets too hot.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

No wonder my last reply wasnt posted I pressed the report button and not the post reply button!!!!

If the voltage drops wont that affect the performance of the bulb? And is there a chance that the heatsink will melt the shroud?

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

For Everyones info The classic hids have sold out as of the date of this post

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I can easily touch and hold the heatsinks on our car bulbs and that means below 50 deg C - by overheating it means over 100deg C - which should only happen if you wrap heatsink in insulation - bulbs rated from 9-32volts D.C.. Which means,they will be full brightness from 9volts and don't dim when bike engine is ticking over.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

If you're referring to LEDs then these are normally constant current so give the same light output irrespective of the supply voltage.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Thanks

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Contact. sales@classiccarleds.co.uk and they will have a date when new stock should be arriving, I found them very helpful with technical questions as well.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Did we manage to work out whether the OSRAM NIGHT BREAKER LASER bulbs ib the OP's question were any good or not?
Alan

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

From what I’ve been reading on the net (mostly opinion and reviews), a halogen bulb will not have the white light of either led’s/hid’s. I have aftermarket bulbs in at the moment and they are osrams or Phillips but the moment I put them in a few years ago now I suspected they weren’t genuine because of the colour

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I tried some cheap H4 LED bulbs in my SV650S, the light was whiter, but the spread was not very good and they didn’t last long (I suspect they succumbed to the vibration). I’ve gone back to the ordinary H4 bulbs (probably not the originals as the bike is 13 years old), which are perfectly good (not as white as the LED running lights, but very good penetration and spread.
I’ve sort of concluded this is trying to fix a problem that isn’t there.


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

The Classicccarled LED H4 have a better spread of light than any filament bulb I have tried, the light is much whiter and picks things like road signs out much better. The amount of useful light on nearside verge ( where you need it - especially when headlights are approaching at night ) is great and IMHO makes driving / riding at night much more pleasant - added to that the whiter light is much more visible in daylight so makes a big difference to daytime safety as well. For me it is a no-brainer, even though filament bulbs are cheaper - and LED lights are much more resistant to vibration than filaments - we have had bulbs in our cars and my bike now for pretty much 2 years and no sign of a problem. With so many vehicles now having very bright DRL your yellow motorbike headlight has become even less visible - I will never fit another filament headlight bulb. There was some arguments / confusion about whether aftermarket LED headlight bulbs would pass an MOT, but both our cars and my bike have been through MOT with them fitted and tester never even mentioned them. Not all LED bulbs are created equal though, Philips went to a great deal of trouble to make their ZES LED chips exactly the same size and shape as a filament to keep the beam pattern correct in a reflector designed for filament bulb, there are a lot of cheap and nasty LED bulbs out there with a totally illegal beam pattern.

Trust me, once you have tried good LED bulbs you will wonder how you ever managed before.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I'm prepared to be corrected here :-) but my understanding is that the "white" halogen bulbs use blue filters to effectively add more blue light to the mix. While they appear a cooler colour, they won't have the same visibility benefits of a broad-spectrum white light.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I think you are correct, and adding any filter to bulb will reduce total amount of light available. One benefit of cooler running LED is that the bugs and general crud does not get baked onto the headlight covers and is easy to remove. Downside is that the LED may not produce enough heat to melt driving snow off the covers. I am sure that the extra heat from new ever brighter / hotter filament bulbs has something to do with the premature yellowing / cloudiness of plastic covers.

Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Is there any reason not to just fit some 100w xenon bulbs like these for about £7? I’m guessing they would just fit in the original lamps complete with the little rubber gaiters and the electrics could easily manage another 35W (so 3A). I suppose there might be a bit more heat produced, so that might keep my hands a bit warmer :-)

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F350754325641

... I’m thinking these are well worth a gamble at only £6.75, delivered to my house.


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I don't think those are Xenon HID lights, just halogen lights with a blue filter. There doesn't appear to be a ballast - my guess is that the small print says they're "xenon effect" or something.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

The brand is xenon. The bulb is halogen painted blue

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Why do you think that? It says HID in the title. I’m just curious, I don’t know much about headlamp bulbs.


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

They run at something like 30kV, so aren't a direct replacement for a 12V bulb - the upgrade kits would include a ballast which generates the signal to drive them.

Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

These bulbs run at 30,000V? Can that be right? I think I need to do a bit more research into the technology if that is the case.

An addendum: the starter (just like the gas discharge lights I have in my aquarium) generates about 25kV, but once the arc is formed the they require about 80V to maintain it (good old Google). That sounds more plausible.

I think I’ll stick with the H4 halogen bulbs, they work fine.


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Probably because there is a picture of a halogen bulb dunked in blue paint. Also the brand name is Xenons.biz. Also you can clearly see that it is a halogen H4 bulb. Also the description describes nothing. Also the feedback describes the bulb as "normal lights with a blue tint". Also there is no mention or pictures of any kind of ballast whatsoever. Also it costs £6.75

Is this your first day on the internet?


Oh yeah! Ok nevermind then, it must be a HID bulb

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

You think me very foolish. Ho hum.


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

If intending to fit higher power H4 bulbs it would be worth looking into fitting relays and a direct feed from the battery. Consider that in the standard circuit the current for the lights passes through the ignition switch, then to and from the start button on the right handlebar, then through the dip switch on the left, then finally to the lights.

Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

That is a fair point, two 60W bulbs are going to draw 5A each, so 10A, whereas two 100W bulbs will draw 16A. The wiring looks like it is about 1.0mm^2, so it would be on the margins. So, having thought about it, there would be no point fitting more powerful halogen bulbs. There is nothing much wrong with the standard ones.

As LEDs become cheaper (as they inevitably will) it may be worth converting to that type, one would expect the power consumption to be about 20% as much (allowing a bit for the little cooling fans they seem to have).


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Could be more than that, depending on voltage drop as the nominal 60W is at 12.0V. With the engine running and battery fully charged it could be supplying more like 14V. See here for some test results, although they only quote up to 13.2V ..
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...b-test-results

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

That was an interesting article. If the system is running at more than 12V then the current would be less of course, so the heating effect on the wiring would be a bit less, but I take your point. I’d expect the voltage losses to be very small, but that assumes the switches and connectors are in good condition (I’ve heard that SVs often have issues with connectors). Anyway, using more powerful halogen bulbs would be a daft idea, unless one wants a bike on fire.

The price of LEDs is certainly coming down. I’ve done a bit of research over the last couple of days and now know a bit more about the bulb technologies. I’m quite tempted by this LED conversion kit direct from a Chinese manufacturer:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254187741767

Someone will probably say it will be rubbish, but in my experience buying direct from Chinese manufacturers is quite often satisfactory.


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Do not buy a bulb unless it is guaranteed that the position, shape and size of the LED exactly match the filament of a bulb, the whole reflector and hence the legal beam pattern is designed around the filament bulb. Here are some interesting videos about different LED bulbs and the presenter has a novel way of getting rid of the ones that don't produce a both good beam pattern and the claimed light output. Some of these bulbs are worse than terrible and it is a wonder they even made it to market. The bulbs in our cars and bike have all passed MOT, the new MOT rules mean they pay particular attention to beam pattern.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQF5ESBHLrw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4du3JRoavJg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sonh4lHu4XE


On this thread are some pictures of H4 beams on my wifes Honda Jazz when I replaced filament bulbs with classiccarleds LED

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=227521

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

With normal incandescent bulbs the current increases with voltage. So a nominal 60W bulb may draw 5A at 12V making it's power 60W, but if you feed it say 14V then it will draw more current maybe not in a linear way. See the first example in that test a 60W bulb drew 5.4A at 13.5V.

Regarding cheap LED bulbs some people seem to find them OK, I found them rubbish. Although the light looked bright it gave very poor actual vision, a sort of watery light is the best way I can think to describe it. Presumably that's poor light distribution. I also found with mine that the difference between dip and main was too great, so to get a decent dip beam the main beam was too high. In the end I went for super expensive from Horizon LEDs, mainly because of a 40% off special offer.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

You mean these..
https://www.horizonleds.co.uk/led-he...000-lumens-led

The classiccarleds ones are same Philips luxeon ZES chips and the housings look identical, they are half the price of the horizon ones, we have been using them for pretty much 2 years now and no problems. Would never go back to filament bulbs now, and I tried plenty of different ones of various +120%, +130% and +150% . Look at the link to beam pattern photographs I posted, they are all the evidence you need how good they are.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I just looked at the link someone posted below for LED kits costing £140. It just would not be worth considering that for my K6 as I only paid £600 for the bike. It really would not be worth spending a quarter of the purchase price to get some slightly better headlights when the original fitment works exactly as well as the manufacturer intended 13 years ago.

I’m happy to experiment with cheap upgrades if they give a worthwhile improvements for the cost or they cost less than OEM parts that need changing (LED indicators and wavy discs come to mind). So, I think I’ll stick with the original type halogen bulbs for the time being, if I get bored I may experiment with the cheap Chinese ones, we’ll see.


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

Relays could be a cheap fix if you're happy rigging up something yourself. It would be interesting to measure the voltage drop to see how much is actually lost through the standard wiring. I know it's not a like for like comparison but on my tractor I found the standard wiring to the glow plugs dropped so much that the plugs were only getting 6.5V.

Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

It would be a trivial matter to test the impedance from the battery to bulb, then the negative return loop, the sum being Zs (in electrician’s parlance), which will determine the voltage across the luminaire. It really should be a tiny part of an Ohm as the runs are short, and should be negligible compared with the impedance of the bulb or diode, but it would only take one poor connection or switch to change that. The normal culprit where wiring has a high impedance is the movable switches, and after that the mechanical connections (same as for a building a house).


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Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

I'd be interesting if you measured that. Low resistance isn't easy to measure with DIY equipment, also I'm not entirely clear how you'd sum the parts that are common with other loads or even between the two headlights.

Re: Osram Night Breaker Laser H4
 

If I get some spare time this afternoon I might do it. I’m qualified as an electrician (not that I do it as a business) so I have a multi function test meter that will measure down to small parts of an Ohm. I don’t think there would be much of a problem with a dead test between the two battery terminals and the two live terminals of the H4 block connector. I’d have to check the wiring diagram, but I’m pretty sure the two headlamps are wired in parallel from the same two lives (looped in and out of the first to the second), so one only has to measure the impedance to the last one as the difference is just a couple of feet of wire (just as one does on a radial circuit in a building). I suspect the biggest losses will be at the two movable switches (key and high/low beam), but as long as the impedance of the whole is very small compared with the bulb the voltage drop to the luminaire will be small.
You are right that the situation would change if another large load was applied to the battery - but the only one that would apply on a standard set up would be the starter, which I think I could ignore for the purpose of this exercise (one would expect the lights to dim when operating the starter).
If I get round to it this afternoon I’ll post the results.


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