Regulator chat thread.
OK, it's been a interesting day, I went to get my tyres fitted from F&P and to start with my battery was a bit flat so I charged it for 30 mins, stuck it on the bike and it fired, I went for fuel a mile away and it started again no probs, I went the 35 odd miles to F&P had my tyres fitted and it started fine. On the way back it was snowing so I had my lights on, I got to within half a mile of my house, pulled up at a set of traffic lights and didn't keep a bit of throttle on and it stalled (see carb related problem thread), anyway, the battery was dead, starter would just turn but wouldn't fire, not enough power, so I ended up pushing my bike home in 1/2 inch of snow - not fun and not best pleased.
Anyway! below is a chronilical log of events and volts from this evening: 5:20pm - Bike wont start - Battery out of bike and on the table - 12.18 Volts 5:35pm - Battery charging using a 12v 300ma charger - 12.64 volts 6.06pm - Still charging - 12.82 volts 6.32pm - Finished charging (well enough to start the bike) - 12.87 volts 6.36pm - Battery on the bike and started up
Next I switched the lights off and left it idling and it got upto 13.40 volts then it dropped back to 13.15 volts and stayed there for about 20 seconds then jumped to 13.38 volts then climbed to 13.41 volts and then dropped back to 13.15 volts (no rpm changes) Turned the ignition off and it was 12.97 volts and after a smoke it had dropped to 12.88 volts. I'll leave it attached and see how much it drops. (or should I do something else) so it seems that turning my lights on kills the battery, the bulbs are Phillips X-tremes H4's 12v 60/55 watt. I tend to like riding with my lights on which isn't going to work but what am I up against here, knackered battery, Reg Rec issue, bad earth, cables rubbing or all of the above. What should I do next? Many Thanks |
Re: Electrics
I would think its your reg/rectifier. When running you should see 13.8 - 14.4v no matter what load you put on. My old Blade would run all ady with the lights off and keep the battery charged as per normal. Put the lights on and it would just drain the battery down. Needed a new reg/rectifier and all was well again.
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Re: Electrics
join the club lol, im after a cbr rectifier as we speak, except my problem is high voltage, 17 volts!
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Re: Electrics
Yep id say reg rec failing.
I know its not the end of the world if you dont, im sure a new one would be fine but for probably less money you can upgrade your system to a mosfet reg rec, either an FH08 from recent cbr's etc or an FH10 from zx10/14 fjr1300 etc. Bit of wiring and bobs your uncle. Just did my curvy with an FH010 as I couldn't ride with my main beams on. Now I get 14.7 at idle and 14.5 with lights. No fluctuation even throughout the rev range :D Not too sure what the story is if its a pointy though. Here's a fault finding guide to help.. http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ding-guide.php |
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ah well, day time riding only then, thanks for the input chaps and I'll be fighting with you beabert on ebay lol
So it's the reg rec, has anybody compiled a list of what will fit straight on, what'll fit with a few mods and what'll fit but you need to have a phd in bikes (like YC)? I feel a post trawl coming on if no ones has. |
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You want a mosfet one, thingy above just named the 3 that most use. The fh008 one from the cbr is small like the svs and will fit in the same space, the fh0012 wont you will have to move it, the fh010 im not sure.
fh008 is cheapest 2006 cbrs onwards. They are all indentical to connect its just the plugs that are different. |
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you just keep your mitts of the ones i bid on lol
http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0 |
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What's fh00XX beabert, is that the model or year of the honda or something completely different?
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It the coding thats stamped on the bottom of the reg rec. Has nothing to do with year or make of bike.
If you do get an FH010 or a FH012, as beabert said they wont fit where the original is. My FH010 now lives in the pillion seat storage happy out. Have had the bike out for hours and then checked it and it was barely warm if at all, so its fine there imo |
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yep as above, so make sure the model number starts with an f, that way you know its a better quality mosfet. 2007 onwards on a cbr have the fh008and some 2006's
yamaha r1 / fj for the fh 12 zx10 zx14 for fh 10 |
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ok, so I'm after pretty much the following:
reg/rec with a part number of FH008, FH010 or FH012 (or just starting with F?) from any bike, any year from say 2000 onwards noting though that FH010 and FH012 are larger and need a different home maybe this one if it meets the above : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/regulator-rect...#ht_500wt_1182 http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0 - mmm - that looks complicated |
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first link no! lol cbr 2007 onwards.
Not hard at all i promise lol. |
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HONDA-CBR600-C...item27af198bcd
Thats one i think. (fh008 ) note the shape its not square on one end. fh012 ( the best one 50amp) looks like this, note the shape and connection type http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-R1-TDM9...item3efc3e448f http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-R1-02-0...item4838b422bd Im skint until my items are sold so im not in the market lol. |
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The first one has the code SH on the bottom if you look close. This is not what you want as its the same type as the one you have.
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I just won a FH0014 for £18! woo hoo
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Whats an FH014 from? lol
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Newest cbr1000 according the web eviltwinsbk.
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
Actually with uniformly slightly under-volting like that I would check all the wiring voltage drops before buying a new reg rec
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
Do you have a multimeter with a diode test function? you can test it first. Mine measurements were way out, assuming i have done it correctly.
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/1020/capturehf.png |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
Set it to AC-Voltage and see what it is putting out, you should have some decent voltage there. 70V-AC at 5krpm or more.
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
From my understanding, which aint much, you completely disconnect the rectifier from the bike. The diode function outputs voltage to see how much it takes to overcome diode potential.
Mines are all out of spec. No tested the alternators output on mine yet, as above it should be 70 |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
I don't trust diode test of Reg-Rec. I've had a couple check out tip-top and be completely knackered.
See what's going into it and what's coming out of it, if those aren't the problem then you know it is the RR. |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
I see where your coming from, especially because of how hot they get.
Mine checks out knackered to start with and outputting to high of a charge, so im confident its gone tits up, not to mentioned a knackered battery. |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
Almost certainly :-)
There would have to be a very wierd problem to get an over-volt situation with something other than the reg-rec at fault. |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
I have had no end of weird problems in my 25 yeas on this planet lol. I dont fo a minute expect everything to go as planned, some git has probably added extra windings lol.
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
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when you say "check all the wiring voltage drops" what does that mean to someone who has never touched wiring before? Thanks |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
I think what he is getting at is if the rectifier is recieving a lower voltage than normal, then the voltage levels across the board will be all uniformly lower in all tests (light on etc), and if the voltage levels are all over the place then its more likely to be the rectifier.
Check the voltages entering the rectifier first :-) ill post a picture of the page from the manual, one sec.... http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2996/captureue.png |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
Another one here 5hort5
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/honda-cbr-1000...item53df442953 Cant get the fancy connectors for these, but spade terminals work fine. |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
Tomorrow I will mainly be in the garage - again
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
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I.E set meter to DC-V and put on contact in the back of the regreg connector on the live, other one to the battery live. If there is a big voltage drop here you have a high resistance which is losing your volts for you. |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
ok - so the results from some of the tests.
YC - your voltage drop question above, I get 0.13 volts at idle (not sure if that's good or bad) - should I try it at revs and with the lights on? Next test - Alternator output, on all three yellow wires it was reading 85volts at 5k rpm so I think that's good. Also with engine off the resistance read at 1 ohm for all wires Doing a diode test of black and red to the three yellow wires on the RR, they all read ones? So where does that leave me? (apart from with a multi meter and an RR on my lap typing this? |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
0.13V is ok ... if it is like 2 or 3 volts you have a big problem there because you are losing a lot of power somewhere.
(P = IV so if your bike is drawing 20A then you are losing 40-60W of power, this will show as a very hot connector or wire somewhere) |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
mmm - hunt for a hot wire time. Does the RR sound ok then?
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
Sounds like a reg rec fault because:
a) you just checked for a power loss across the reg-to-battery wiring and found it within reasonable limits b) you just checked the alternators output and found it to be healthy So you are putting power into the regrec and it ain't coming out. |
Re: Regulator chat thread.
cool - ok well I got bored and had a hunt round a couple of local breakers and no joy on the later models so off to fleebay to have a look it is.
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Re: Electrics
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
lol how popular is reg/rec failure lately. I've been informed my FH008 is on its way hopefully have the curvy up and running shortly.
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Re: Regulator chat thread.
Must be the weather, lets just say I have plans of greatness for my knackered one ;-)
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