Engine Swap
 

I have:

a. bike with an engine with a broken case mounted in the frame with good covers
b. replacement engine from ebay sat in my living room sans covers, generator and starter clutch
c. 2x cover gaskets

I want to swap the engines over, is it just a case of:

1. detaching everything connected to the original engine, undoing the mountings (with it supported from underneath), then dropping it out.
2. mounting the new engine, reattaching everything
3. switching over the covers, generator and starter clutch
4. filling with oil and coolant

Or do I need to worry about checking compression, timings, etc? Should I just take it to a professional?

Re: Engine Swap
 

PS - plan is to do it this weekend if everything looks easy enough, any helping hands gratefully accepted and rewarded with copious amounts of bacon / egg / sausage / tea - preferably someone who knows what the hell they're doing as quite frankly I'm winging it.

Simesb, you free mate? :)

Re: Engine Swap
 

If the other engine is good, change the covers and it should be fine. If something's wrong you'll know when you fire her up.

Re: Engine Swap
 

It was listed as fully working condition, minus generator and starter clutch, so i'll need to swap those over, is that straight forward?

Re: Engine Swap
 

Should be fairly simple. :o

Re: Engine Swap
 

Timing is fixed. Compression will be fine unless you've bought a lemon.

I'd whip the cam covers off the new un and check for swarf as that'd be obvious sign if something was utterly f##ked. Chances are it will be fine, they are tough motor 8)

Just unbolt everything and bolt it back onto new un.

Re: Engine Swap
 

Re: Engine Swap
 

How did this go- any unforscene probs? have got to do mine this weekend!

Re: Engine Swap
 

For what its worth, I would whip the spark plugs out of the new engine and turn it over gently with a socket on the end of the crankshaft. If everything turns nice and smooth slap it together and fire it up.

Re: Engine Swap
 

Quick question do i need some special tools? or will a hammer and socket set do :twisted:

Re: Engine Swap
 

Yeah basic tools. Also not a bad idea to have a manual and a torque wrench handy if you want to do it properly.

Re: Engine Swap
 

Castellated sockets for the adjuster bolts too.

Re: Engine Swap
 

It went ok, although I do seem to have a small coolant leak I need to track down, every time I go back to the bike there's a small drip hanging on the waterpump.

Other than that it's running ok, although I haven't tried going up through the gearbox yet, only neutral.

I would definitely have a torque wrench (10-100lb/ft) handy, as some of the torques for the engine mountings are quite high. They also have the castle-type locknuts around the bolt spacers, so you'll need a peg-spanner or some of these:

http://i6.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/d9/0f/a30e_1.JPG


Be methodical - have some trays ready for everything you take off and label them. I only did it with a few bits and it's a pain in the **** trying to remember where it all went. Taking pictures as you go would also be a help for routing pipes / cables, this was something else I struggled with but you can mostly work it out from the natural kinks that have developed and by the connections as they're mostly unique.

I would also say a haynes or service manual is a must, just for piece of mind, but you might be more maverick than I am :)

Re: Engine Swap
 

Yep, with the covers off and the plugs out it was turning over smoothly from the flywheel.

Once I had it back in the frame with oil and coolant in it and all the electrics wired up, I gave it a good couple of 10 sec bursts off the starter motor without any fuel connected to get the oil well distributed inside after it had been sat dry for so long. This actually dropped the oil level a fair bit from the first fill, so I kept topping it back up until it consistantly returned to the same level in the spy glass.

Re: Engine Swap
 

You need to be careful doing that. You should allow time for the oil to settle back into the sump before checking the level again. You'll probably find there is too much oil in there now.

edit....or maybe thats what you were already doing....might have misunderstood you there.

Re: Engine Swap
 

If its coming out of the water pump, theres a funny shaped rubber gasket in there, it may have perished or something. Make sure hose clamps are in good condition too. Squeezing the pipes will tell you this.
When my engine was swapped out, we noticed that the clamps had corroded so small drips were present, as it wasn't clamping anymore, you couldn't tighten it. I wasn't paying Suzuki prices...theres still a bodge jubilee clamp on the hose.
Also Im Indoors mentioned has someone ommitted to put the copper washer back in the drain plug of the water pump, when they drained the system?

Re: Engine Swap
 

I think it might be the funny shaped seal between the two halves of the water pump as I didn't take it apart to check it :(. The 2 o-rings between the waterpump and the clutch cover were in good nick however and I put some loctite silicone sealant around them for good measure so i'd be surprised if it's those. The washer is on the coolant drain plug but it's the old one so maybe I should've replaced it.

It's due a valve clearance service and MOT as soon as it's ridable anyway so as long as it'll get me to a garage I think i'll let them worry about it. It might seem weird after doing a full engine swap that I want to pay for a normal service but I'd prefer to have someone professional check over my handywork before I start riding it in any sort of anger.

Re: Engine Swap
 

Yeah sorry, I'll explain:

1. Starting from a completely dry engine, I filled the oil to half way between the low and full markers in the spy glass.
2. I then turned the engine over with the starter motor for 10 secs
3. Left it a minute or two for the oil level to settle back down
4. Topped up the oil back to half-way.
5. Repeated 2-3-4 until the oil was staying settled at half way mark
6. Connected up the fuel tank, put in a bit of fresh fuel, started the engine.
7. Let it run on idle, checking for weird noises, let it get to 80c to check for temp related leaks.
8. Gave it a bit of throttle just for fun
9. Turned it off, left it 5-10 mins, checked the oil, topped it up to just under the F line.

I also topped up the coolant resevoir at this point, so I think that should cover everything fluid wise.

Re: Engine Swap
 

Hello all, firstly I’m new to the SV650 and forum, and would appreciate some advice .I have an SV k4 model with a thrown con rod engine number p507- 134195 it’s injection as you probably know .I would like to know which engines are interchangeable with this bike. I have seen a low mileage v/strom one for sale but don’t really know if it will fit without any power loss
ie is the power output from mapping or valves and cams? .Naturally if anyone has one let me know .thanks