Clutch replacement - how difficult?
 

Its slipping! ive done 17.5 k, but a havn't really been nice too it.

dealers it will cost me £150 if its just the friction plates but i would rather do it myself, then i can decide what is needed.

do you recomend clutch plates as a DIY task? and at what milage have you had to replace clutch parts.

Re: Fred's Clutch
 

My dad recently changed my clutch plates (friction and steel) and springs; EBC do a kit that you can buy from wemoto that includes all that for about £150 i think :) so you can probably get the individual parts much cheaper. I dont think its a difficult job from what I've seen and read, but as with everything you do the first time, get the right tools and advice before you get it apart and take your time :)

It is probably worth changing the oil when you do this, although you don't have to - you can lean the bike over far enough to let the oil sit on the opposite end of the bike before taking off the clutch cover.

for what it's worth, my bike has done 43,000 miles on its initial clutch plates. I've had the bike for about 25,000 miles now, mostly all london riding (lots of clutch use and abuse)

Re: Fred's Clutch
 

With the K3+ SVs it is necessary to drain the coolant and take the right hand engine side cover off, rather than just removing the clutch cover.

Once you've done this you will need to take off the 5/6 (can't remember) bolts holding the hub on, and you can remove the plates with your fingers. It's not hard.

However. Be absolutly certain that your clutch lifter mechanism by the front sprocket is correctly adjusted first as this is free to adjust and often the cause of clutch slipping as the adjustment of it changes with friction plate wear.

You will be very unlikely to need the steel clutch plates, in addition to the friction plates if the adjustment does not help.

Jambo

Re: Fred's Clutch
 

for a step by step guide see may 2010 Ride magazine, they show you how it should be done.

Re: Fred's Clutch
 

thankyou gentlemen

Re: Fred's Clutch
 

Echo Jambo's advice - be absolutely certain the adjustment is correct before condemning the clutch itself.
17,500 miles is not a long life from a clutch, not that it's definatley not knackered - I've seen shorter than that - but SVs are not heavy on clutches, so it's very definately worthwhile being quite certain what's amiss before opening the engine up.

Should it require replacement the job is not difficult, as said above on a Pointy there is the slight complication of the necessity to remove the side case.

Re: Clutch replacement - how difficult?
 

sorted the other end this evening, so shall test it asap

Re: Clutch replacement - how difficult?
 

hav'nt had it slip yet, so far so good, will thrash it asap to be sure lol

Re: Clutch replacement - how difficult?
 

Hey folks,

had a nightmare today while on the way to Glastonbury for a meeting. Ended up being an hour and a half late and got so annoyed the bike got dumped in the garage and we took the car.

Anyway, reason it was so messed up is because the clutch on the SV was slipping under power. However, the total mileage on the bike is only just over 8000 miles, so it seems a little odd that the clutch plates would have gone.

It felt like there was no adjustment in the cable and the bike was slipping in all gears when applying power. Got it home and tried to think of anything that could be causing this before breaking the case and fitting new plates.

First place I checked was the worm gear. This has all of the bearings inside, but was a dank little pocket of corrosion and rust. I have now removed this to clean it up and regrease the internals.

Anything else I should look at before draining fluids and popping the case off?

It seems a little odd that the clutch should go at such a low mileage, although it is mainly ridden with both of us on it and we do like to be hooligans on the motorway.

If it is the plates that have gone, is it worth upgrading to heavy duty springs and plates?

Also, while I am messing about with clutches, is there a hydraulic conversion available for the K3 650 that will allow me to get rid of the worm gear thing or can I bolt on a slave from a SV1000?

Thanks folks.
:cry:

Re: Clutch replacement - how difficult?
 

Jayne,

You may be experiancing problems with the pushrod indeed, so get it cleaned and greased and back on, properly adjusted. If you feel the cable is on its way ou, get a replacment or at least dribble some oil down it overnight :)

A bike left standing can suffer problems with clutch plate material going bad, maybe the steel plates have suffered corrosion? Its not a difficult job to replace the plates and springs, you can get an EBC set with slightly stronger springs, but thre is no real need.

You might like to try replacing the oil before delving into the clutch itself :)