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-   -   Erratic ignition now no power, no start (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=229740)

embee 03-07-18 11:30 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
3 other places where curvy wiring harnesses chafe. Probably not your issue from the description, but worth knowing and checking.
The wiring loops round a frame bracket inside the pillion seat cubby area, left side of the bike towards the rear. Check for chafing.
Both rider's seat bolts can be too long and hit the harness conveniently running just behind them. Check both sides. These are the ones holding the seat on, remove the triangle black panels to reveal them.

I suspect more likely Bibs is on track.

Bibio 03-07-18 12:59 PM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
have you checked the battery voltage when off then on? you need a "perfect" battery to test the electrical system, if your battery is dodgy then you will get dodgy reading. if you know the battery is old then best get a new one.

one of the problems with the curvy clocks is that they draw power directly from the battery/charging system. if someone has replaced the fuse for a higher rated then if jump starting the bike can cause a surge to the clocks, its rare though.

i suspect that you never checked the ignition switch to see if it was the problem first so you might have just wasted money there.

to test the electrical system you need a DMM with thin "needle" probes. using the wiring diagram you start with the main power from battery to the next component to check for power (12-13v) then from that component to the next so on and so on. next up you then systematically check each end of each connector for wire continuity. there is no quick fix.

you can ignore things like indicator and lighting circuits for the time being and concentrate on the power/starting circuits.

the symptoms your describing sound very like what happens when the RR goes open circuit. when this happens you get AC through the electrical system due to the rectifier diodes breaking down. your generator/stator generate AC voltage and your rectifier/regulator turns the AC voltage to DC voltage and then regulates the voltage to a more suitable DC voltage (around 15v).

wires and fuses dont care if the voltage is AC or DC but the electrical components do as they were designed for DC usage. supplying DC components with AC will fry internal circuity.

hope this helps.

BigTon 10-07-18 09:42 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
Thanks for all your advice

I have checked all the connectors on the loom that I can see and they’re all spotless. I’ve also checked and can’t see any breaks in the harness either.

Battery is reading 13v

I tried a new ignition switch which made no difference at all.

I’ve tested the turn signal relay and diodes which appear to be working correctly.
I’ve been following your advice working my way along the harness and checking connectors but getting a little confused along the way.
But I noticed that there is 13v going to the meter fuse (3?) but only when the ignition is off. Once the ignition switch is ON I can’t find any power at the fuses. That can’t be right?

Also, how the hell do I get the ground that’s in behind the swing arm? That’s the only one I haven’t checked due to firstly not being able to find it and secondly not being able to access it!

A local garage told me the dancing needles and flashing lights sounds like an ICU fault. There’s no way of testing that unit but should I still have ignition lights if it were faulty? Same with R/R?


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R1ffR4ff 10-07-18 10:03 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
What's the voltage across the battery @ idle?

BigTon 10-07-18 10:08 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
13v across the battery terminals, what do you mean by idle?


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R1ffR4ff 10-07-18 10:09 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigTon (Post 3088670)
13v across the battery terminals, what do you mean by idle?


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I mean with the engine running at idle speed.

BigTon 10-07-18 10:13 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff (Post 3088671)
I mean with the engine running at idle speed.


Ah ok, the engine won’t turn over, it’s completely dead.
When it was running it was idling at 13.8v or something.


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R1ffR4ff 10-07-18 10:20 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigTon (Post 3088673)
Ah ok, the engine won’t turn over, it’s completely dead.
When it was running it was idling at 13.8v or something.


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Ok.I should have read back.It's the ,"No Power" issue.All you can do is keep looking for continuity breaks like you have said things like that ground wire and main power wires.

Also if not already covered look for engine stop points like the side-stand switch/Engine cut-off switch.I had an engine cut-off switch short and cause intermittent none starting on one of my old Hondas.

BigTon 10-07-18 10:41 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff (Post 3088674)
Ok.I should have read back.It's the ,"No Power" issue.All you can do is keep looking for continuity breaks like you have said things like that ground wire and main power wires.

Also if not already covered look for engine stop points like the side-stand switch/Engine cut-off switch.I had an engine cut-off switch short and cause intermittent none starting on one of my old Hondas.



Checked side-stand switch and neutral indicator switch also. Both appear to be working correctly according to the manual. I did check the cut off switch but maybe worth double checking. I thought it would still have power though if it were that switch?


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R1ffR4ff 10-07-18 10:43 AM

Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigTon (Post 3088677)
Checked side-stand switch and neutral indicator switch also. Both appear to be working correctly according to the manual. I did check the cut off switch but maybe worth double checking. I thought it would still have power though if it were that switch?


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Yeh it should.It's more likely a main power wire/ground.

What state are the actual fuse holder sockets in?

I had a none-starter where the fuse holder looked ok but was open-circuit.


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