Curvy clutch cover prep
 

So ... after much debate I have decided to not use the gen2 clutch cover on my gen1 mainly for clutch access etc. As my curvy cover has developed a very minor weep I think I'll remove it, thoroughly degrease it, check it for warpage and flat it on a glass surface with fine emery paper if it's easily rectified. The next step would be to remove the top hats and then grind them down so they don't protrude through the bolt holes, my question is this... how much will I have to grind off? Only asking as I don't want to fit and refit the top hats again and again until its right. After it's done I'll obviously replace them, use a new O ring and use a smear of gasket sealant for good measure then tighten down to correct torque spec.
Anyone here done theirs this way? Any problems after? Cheers.

Re: Curvy clutch cover prep
 

Others will no doubt comment and have slightly different advice .......

FWIW, the sealing relies entirely on the clean surfaces and the nip of the O-ring. The nip depends entirely on the depth of the groove. Because the covers were plastic they were relatively flexible and the outer surface should come down pretty much flat onto the engine casting. As long as the groove depth is consistent the O-ring nip should be consistent and they shouldn't leak.

I wouldn't concern myself particularly with the flatness of the plastic face (unless it's a million miles out, in which case you need another cover), indeed if you take material off in certain areas all you'll end up doing is reducing the groove depth, which could potentially end up with too much nip.

I'm not sure what exact detail the top hats are intended to have regarding upstand or recess. In principle top hat inserts in plastic covers are to enable the fasteners to be tightened enough to stop them coming loose, a softish plastic cover doesn't provide enough strength to give this so a metal insert is used. The inserts are usually designed a fraction short of the plastic depth so it "just" pinches the plastic but without distorting it significantly. Once the mating faces touch the O-ring should have the correct nip to seal, the plastic cover then does not need significant additional clamp load.

If the faces are good, and the groove depth is consistent, personally I would avoid using sealant, it shouldn't need it. If you really do need to use it, I'd recommend something like Loctite 5980 which I've found extremely reliable. Halfords do small tubes of it for around £7.

Other opinions may vary.......... :D

Re: Curvy clutch cover prep
 

Thanks for the reply, the weep is very slight tbh and only started after I gave the bike a good hard run, I had heard that when 'pressing on' a bit the crank case pressure build up from the v twin is enough push passed the rubber O ring and create the oil leak, once it starts there's no stopping it!? Apart from remove, clean and re-seal. So. With this in mind I'll do the necessary de-grease and fit a new oem seal and maybe use a smear of sealant ( Granville) rubberised gasket goo just for overkill as I'd like to do this only once! I see what you mean regarding the top hats, I was under the impression they protruded more than they actually do, so probably is unnecessary to mess with them now.
I'll get into it over the weekend and see what's what. I'm confident that the cover isn't warped as the weep is so small but removal and use of a surface plate will reveal all ... I hope.

Re: Curvy clutch cover prep
 

As Embee says, the cover is just an O-ring seal and should work fine. If you are getting leakage when caning it then check your breather hoses as it suggests crankcase pressurisation which should not happen.

Re: Curvy clutch cover prep
 

I did exactly as Embee did, check it's flat-ish - emery the worst of it, remove and inspect o-ring clean out grooves, apply an adhesive lightly to the grooves pop the oring in one and tighten up evenly (starshape torquing).
I ued some old school redstuff, hermaphrodite whatsit - it never leaked again. A guy I worked with at the time assured me regular bathroom silicone would do the same job...what Embee says is probably the best choice.
You can talcum your bike to be sure where the drip is coming from (I had both leaks at once #-o )