TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide
 

Well, here it is - the long awaited pictorial of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment .

Q: What does it do??

A: Basically, Fuel injected Suzukis have a sensor that senses what revs the engine is at and then tells the fuel injection and engine management systems to alter (basically to start squirting more fuel into the cylinders). MOST bikes are set wrongly and this causes the bike to be jerky at slow speeds (due to the fact that there's not enough fuel getting into the engine & then all of a sudden the fuel starts pumping in faster but by then it's a bit late!! This adjustment rectifies the problem!

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment
Step-By–Step Guide


**Before undertaking this modification, I strongly recommend that you read the instructions through from start to finish & have them to hand during the process**


You will need:

A length of fairly thin wire (multi-core like the stuff you get on the end of cheap jap speakers is what I found worked best)
A Size 25 Security Torx bit (available here, product number 285-9488)

1: You will need to make your ‘dealer mode tool’…

Simply take a piece of wire about 3 inches long and strip back about 8mm of the insulating sheath (twist the cores together on multi-core cable). Snip off the last 2-3mm with a pair of scissors or a wire cutter to leave a clean end.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/..._mode_wire.jpg

2: Undo the side panels under the saddle…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...ide_panels.jpg

And remove the saddle…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/.../Undo_seat.jpg

3: Undo the tank retaining bolts…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...screw_Tank.jpg

Lift the tank & prop up with the tank prop (surprisingly!!)

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...RE/Tank_UP.jpg

4: Run the engine until at it’s normal operating temperature (most are around 85-90 degrees – I plump for 86!!)

5: Check & adjust your idle speed… It should be about 1200rpm.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...E/low_idle.jpg

6: If (as above) the idle is too low, locate the idle adjust screw – on the left hand side of the bike in one of the triangle shapes in the chassis and adjust. Turn clockwise to raise the idle speed and anti-clockwise to lower it… Go in small movements and ‘blip’ the throttle after each adjustment and allow it to settle before trusting what the rev counter says!

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...dle_adjust.jpg

7: Undo & remove the pillion seat.

8: Locate the Dealer Mode Activation Connector
If you look into the tail unit from behind, on the left hand side you should see a bunch of a few wires & connectors behind a bit of plastic protruding from the undertray.
Follow this bit of plastic down towards the rider’s saddle and you should find another connector. It’s rectangular, white plastic with 6 holes for connectors in and only 4 of them used. It also has a black rubberised cover on it.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/..._HERE_copy.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/..._connector.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...r_wire_out.jpg

9: Turn off your ignition and put your ‘dealer mode tool’ in the two terminals that are next to each other.

**WARNING**
Do NOT short out the wire onto the chassis or any other part of the bike. Do NOT connect either of the other two terminals to anything.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...or_wire_in.jpg

10: With the ‘tool’ still in the connector turn on your ignition. The temperature display should have disappeared and now you will see a little line (like a minus sign), the letter c followed by two zeros. If you have any other numbers shown in this display, see here to diagnose your bike’s fault (it’s the dealer diagnostic display!)

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...ealer_mode.jpg

11: SLOWLY turn your throttle while looking at the little line on the dash… It [I]should[I] move from the middle of the zeros to the top at about 1450rpm. I will bet money on the fact that it won’t!! It will probably move at about 3000rpm.
This is where the fuel injection starts injecting more fuel into the engine so when it’s set too high the bike will be jerky at low speeds! (The line takes a second or two to move, hence turning the throttle slowly!)

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...ange_speed.jpg

12: Turn off the engine and locate the Throttle Position Sensor… It’s under the tank on the left hand side of the bike, just behind the air box.

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...ance_shot2.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...close_up_1.jpg

13: Using your size 25 Security Torx bit…

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...y_Tork_Bit.jpg

CAREFULLY undo the two torx bolts on the sensor (the ones at the top & bottom, not either side!).

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/...undo_bolts.jpg

**WARNING**
The bolts are very hard to get to (especially the lower one) and are made of a very fine, soft French cheese!!!!

I found it easiest to adjust if you don’t undo the top bolt very much as this way you can pivot it a bit better!

14: Start the engine and turn the sensor anti-clockwise (I think) to decrease the sensor’s activation point. You will need to make very tiny movements of the sensor!
You may find that the engine cuts out (or nearly cuts out). If it does stop, try moving the sensor back in the opposite direction & thumbing the starter button again. If this doesn’t help, try increasing your idle speed a little at a time until the engine starts & runs properly again!

15: Keep making small adjustments, turning the throttle slowly while looking at the display to see when the line moves to the top of the display. It should stay in the middle of the display whilst idle and move to the top at around 1450rpm.
Keep fiddling – it does happen although it can be bloody fiddly & infuriating!

16: Once you’ve got the line to move at about 1450rpm, very slowly tighten up the bolts on the sensor again – it’s easiest to do the top one first. It’s not a bad idea to hold the sensor steady as you tighten it, as if it moves, the sensor will activate at a different rpm! Check that the line moves at the same revs after you tighten each bolt.

17: Remove the ‘tool’ from the connector, replace the rubber cover, tuck back where you got it from and check that the temperature display returns on the dash!!

18: Put the tank back down, replace your saddle, side panels and pillion seat and go and test!!!


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I accept no responsibility for this modification or any unexpected effects you may encounter.
_____

WELL DONE :lol: THAT MAN :wink:


Excellent and clear proceedure :thumbsup:

I can vouch for the french cheese bolts :oops: I ended up with a snapped in half hacksaw blade, to cut a slot head in each.

and before anyone says it, I had good quality tools i just was ever so slightly at an angle to the head of the screw and instant cheese :evil:

Take care and take your time.It is fixable if you cheese it, but its awkward to cut the slots in. Took me 4 times longer to do the slots than it took to do the job. :wink:

Oops - I forgot to mention that if you have a second pair of hands available- USE THEM!
Get them to push against the throttle bodies (on the opposite side of where the TPS sensor is) while you undo and re-do up the bolts... That way you can push in a lot harder and are far less likely to balls up the bolts! (I only did this on the last 2 of the 4 bike's I've done this mod to and it makes it sooooo much easier!) The second bike I did, the bottom bolt head just fell apart and we haven't got round to sorting it yet - no doubt we will do when we repair it (it was BillyC's now somewhat second hand looking bike!!).

Also the bottom bolt has some pipes in the way, running along the frsame. You can quite happily move them out of the way. You have about an inch and a half give on them!!

nice one that chap

no use to us migt we seem to be the poor middle country and only afford k2`s max :D

but no doubt it will get used one day by us :D

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/.../Undo_seat.jpg

:shock: The saddle's all wet... You didn't, did you :?:

[quote="Cloggsy :shock: The saddle's all wet... You didn't, did you :?:[/quote]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: That's not my bike, that one! It's BillyC's and I bloomin well hope he hadn't! :shock:
No - it'd been raining pretty hard when we started to do his - our progress then got halted by cheese-bolts! :evil:

Excellent
How To mate.
Thank you very much
30 mins and no cheese
This is the 1st mod that has made a big difference.
Very smooth in 1st gear.
Did I mention I Love you :love:

Yeah - makes you wonder why Suzuki don't set them up better doesn't it!!?? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

Put your snorkel back on mate, then go give it big fistfulls in 1st 2nd and third see what you think :?:

Why put the snorkel on...
Is it a bad thing to remove it mate ?

Much easier on the curvier sexier model... :lol:

well I just found that my filter got a tad wet :( so it's back on) I am however looking for the 1000's snorkel

Excellent howto. It's good that you made a point about how sensitive the adjustment is. I found that I was moving it fractions of a degree and getting quite a bit of change to the RPM level. I think I ended up putting up with it changing at about 1600RPM, which is a whole lot better than the 3000RPM it was as standard. It makes the bike so much nicer to ride in stop-start traffic with the TPS calibrated properly. I've since put a Powercommander on it which has a manually adjustable (set throttle zero position) computerised TPS -like thingy built in which improves things even more.

I'd suggesting trying to get the moderator to make this a sticky, or bung it in the articles section, as it's very handy.

Yeah - I suddenly realised this last night when I was looking at the main website! I have already sent John the link to this and also the 'raw' documents I cut & pasted onto the forum so hopefully they will soon appear in he How To section of the main site!

Those "cheese bolts"...
 

Was just reading thru the step by step TPS mod by coombest (which I reckon is a TOP NOTCH effort - well done mate!) and thought that I'd offer this little tip for dealing with soft-headed fasteners such as encountered here. Use a bit of valve grinding paste (a cheap alternative to proper "screw grab" stuff) on the tip of your Torx bit to give a more positive grip in the recess. Should go a long way to preventing the tip from munting the screw.

Me gonna do this mod very soon me thinks

:D

Did someone ask why suzuki dont make them set like this as standard?.

They do, except like carbs they go out of sync and need resetting. This is done when your bike is serviced. Yep when set right it does make your bike run smoother.

I like the way peeps fiddle when they are not to sure about what they are doing!!...is that why there are so many treads on here from peeps that have bikes with running problems???

actually yes, they said that the sv has the potentioal to be a bloody powerfull bike but they DUMBED it down for the masses as they were **** scared of any tie up with its evil twin brother

Cheers M8 for the MOD, did it.... but unfortunatly did'nt have a secuity torques bit.... small screwdriver and hammer sorted it!!!!
so with french soft cheese as screws and a normal 25 torque bit did the trick....
:twisted: alot better at pulling..now (Wheely Wheely fast)
p.s. anyone got 2 x 25 bit security torque screws please let me know...
I don't think the service dealer will let it go... :oops:

Since completing this mod I've now had a chance to have a good few hours on the bike. I can honestly say I cannot notice any difference with slow speed stuff, or at any other point. I have checked the settings and I have adjusted it spot on!

Oh well - perhaps it's just me, I'll give it some time and see if I can notice a difference. Am I the only one that is not getting any benefit or are you all just imagining it in?! :lol: (the mind can play funny games!)

I didn't have any problems with the bolts - wouldn't advise hammering the conventional torx bits into the screws though! :?

If you are about to do this mod - go and get a quarter drive ratchet and the proper torx bits rather than hammering away or burring up the nice shiny bolts!! A quarter drive will fit right in there with no awkwardness at all.

Well done Tim, excellent mod, shame I havn't got a K3/K4, Now all you need is a Web site with a MODS section on it.
sexysi

Hey . . could we have some opinions from those who did this mod?
did it work, is it worth it, would you do it again?

Before i go butcher my poor cheese bolts!

Good work :thumbsup:

Hi coombest sent you 3 PMs and I cant believe you haven’t received all of them regarding were you get the figure 1450 rpm from. Had a look in the service books but no mention of this figure.

Hi there chewy22,
I have received 2 of your PMs. I don't remember where I got thae 1450rpm figure from now but I do seem to remember it was one also given a lot by varying different websites, etc.

You'll have to forgive my vagueness but July 4th was a bloody long time ago (and that was a good month after I did the actual mods!)...

Add that to the fact that you may have failed to notice that I have had a few, somewhat more 'pressing' things on my mind of late! (See below)

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15275

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15507

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15814

http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=15781

Ok coombest forgiven I think, :?: But in answer to Alaniski question i would say do it as mine was WAY OUT 3 to 4K before it booted in far better to ride now in the lower RPM.

Did my SK3 recently. It was prev at about 3.5k, much smoother now in low-speed traffic conditions. torx security bit set from machinemart - no problem with bolt head condition.

Is there any downside to doing this? Apart from fluffing it up of course...

I've been looking at a remap to trying to smooth things out a bit, but this might be a good idea too. Why does the bike come badly adjusted in the first place?

As you say, other than fluffing it up - or the bolts falling apart like they're made from a nice piece of wensleydale - there's not really a downside as far as I can see.

A remap will certainly be worthwhile but I would still do this first, as this will not be altered by the remap but it could alter the results of the remap, I suppose!

The bike may not be badly adjusted - some seem to be better than others and the only logical reason for this would be that with the volume of production and the tolerances in these items, there's no way they could set each and every one just right! (It does take some time to get it just right!)

i'm thinking of doing this mod too.

Anyone in the south west-ish london, surrey area want to meet up and do two bikes together. The deal is we do your bike first and then once perfected, do mine :wink: :lol:

Thor, are you interested?

Would love to! However, I am restricted to weekends only, and can make no gaurentees as when I might be free. :(

I posted this information in another thread, but thought it would be useful in this thread too...

Just in case anyone is thinking about trying this but not sure... Here are my observations:

1. Very easy to do, thanks to coombest! :notworthy:

2. After the adjustment, my bike is SIGNIFICANTLY less jerky, especially at low speeds. It makes an OBVIOUS difference (at least it did on my bike).

3. [EDIT] Please do not assume that your bike will arrive with the TPS correctly adjusted by Suzuki. Mine was "turning up" the fuel mix at about 3200 RPM -- it's basically a brand new bike! (The adjustment is to reset this transition point to about 1450 RPM.)

4. Instead of using wire, I used an ordinary smallish paperclip, which I trimmed into a U-shape about 3/4 inch long. It actually SNAPPED right into the connector like it was custom-made!

5. In case you aren't aware of the difference, you have to use a SECURITY torx bit -- that means that there is a hole in the top of the bit which can accomodate a small pin. For those in the states, my local Sears had a set of 8 such bits in stock for $9.99.

6. A 1/4" socket can be used to grab the security torx bit and with a small ratcheting handle (1/4" drive) will give you plenty of room to turn that little screw without damaging anything. It's really pretty fool-proof with the right tools.

7. TRY IT, YOU WON'T REGRET IT!

Thank you for your feedback :thumbsup:

Now how many SVs have you fiddled with? Keep the dimissive assumptions to yourself ta.

Gotcha -- I overstated it. What I should have said is "don't assume that your new bike arrives with the TPS adjusted correctly by Suzuki, cause mine didn't!" :oops:

Or Did mine. :wink:

Cool, :lol: , They are often out of adjustment at very low miles, but as stated the adjustment changes dramatically quickly, as you have noted the amount of movement required to make a significant change is very, very small.

Just done the Adjustment on my year old K5. Following the instructions it was very easy, no problems with cheese screws using the correct tools.

It was initially set at 3100 rpm - since everyone seems to be finding that I doubt that is by accident, more like that is the factory setting. Mines now set at approx 2000 rpm, I could not get it any more precise, even tightening up the screws offsets the adjustment; its so sensitive.

I took it out for the same 20 mile blat before and after. The only thing I have noticed, it may be subtle or just my imagination, is that there is less engine braking. I never had any jerkyness in the first place.

Is this a safe 'mod' to do, with no side effects like increased fuel consumption or other worries?- if so I'll put it back as it was.

great mod, made a big difference for my commute into town every day, mine was set at 4200 rpm now just 1800.

Mods please make this sticky?

Thanks

I've just done this mod (er adjustment!), it was set at 3.5k! Now set at 1.5k! Lovely jubly! I wont be able to test untill during the week however as I'm ill!

Is there a recommended setting from Suzuki for this?