SV refurb questions
 

I finally got myself motivated to tidy up my K8, and made a list of things to do -

Powder coat fork lowers
Fit new fork springs and change oil
Powder coat wheels
Powder coat various other oods'n'sods (eg oil cooler grill, etc)
Fit hugger
Fit braided brake lines
Remove grab rail but keep pillion seat
Fit new shock (maybe !!!)

I've had the SV since it was 6 months old and while I know I could get a newer bike with the cash I'm spending, I love it and don't really need
anything else. Mileage isn't high so it's got loads of life in it yet.

Today was the day !!!! Back wheel off no probs - apart from the muck. What a mess, I'll need to buy shares in Gunk / WD40. Same for the front - dead easy, even for a ham-fisted non-mechanic like me.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...1292/Bike..jpg

So, to the questions ....

I got the 2 internal mudguards bolts out no problem, but the 2 at the front ones are stuck. How sturdy are these ? I've soaked them in penetrating fluid and will sneak the wife's hairdrier out to heat them up, but are they likely to shear ?

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ard%20Bolt.jpg

As for getting the wheels painted, I've got a couple of really stupid questions.

Presumably I need to remove / replace the wheel bearings ? I'm going on the basis I do, but is it possible to have them masked up instead ?

Same sort of question for where the cush drive rubbers sit. I'll remove them - presumably that bit of the wheel gets painted too ?

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...292/Wheels.jpg

My current plan is to get everything done in the shiniest, glossiest black. Any other suggestions ?

Re: SV refurb questions
 

powder coating.. make sure that the coaters put an undercoat on. when powder coat chips it works its way under and looks a right mess, with a proper undercoat this happens less. personally having had powder coat on previous wheels i would say spray paint is better as long as you use an etch, primer,top and clear coat then let it harden off. same goes for the forks.

if you are getting things powder coated dont go too mad cleaning things as it gets blasted before the coating goes on.

yes you have to remove the bearings, drive cushions etc.etc.

my number one degreaser is screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsen...FSmjUQodH4gH4A

dont use allan keys on bolts get proper socket ones and use a windygun if you can.

dont bother coating the rad guard covers i think they look better silver as it blends with the rearsets and other stuff.

Re: SV refurb questions
 

Get some Wera Hex Plus allen keys. They let you put a lot more torque on the bolt before the bolt head rounds off.

edit- These: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Re: SV refurb questions
 

Cheers for the replies.

I was thinking of powder coating over painting because I thought that would be a more robust finish, and because there's a few powder-coaters near me. I'm open-minded though - happy to take advice :)

The trouble is now the wheels and (probably tomorrow) the forks are off, I can see other bits that would benefit from a deep clean. The bottom yoke and swing-arm spring to mind.

At this rate, I'll have the whole bike dismantled and spread across the garage floor !!!

Re: SV refurb questions
 

pounder coating can be robust but it all depends on if its done right.

two trains of thought here. the bike overall looks not bad its just the forks need done so some etch, primer and paint will bring them up lovely. same goes for the lower yoke.

unless the swingarm and linkage bearings have been done recently then i would rather spend the money on that instead of making the bike 'look good'.

wheels are around £30-50 to get PC'd and i would guess that the fork lowers are going to cost the same but then you have to add in the cost of new bearings/seals and oil for the forks so about another £60.

dont go too mad cleaning.

Re: SV refurb questions
 

Been busy last couple of days but went out today to take the mudguard and forks off - plan was to take everything round for powder coating.

Minor (I hope) snag. The mudguard bolts are properly seized. I tried a proper key, no joy. Then tried gentle taps with the impact driver - nothing. Couldn't feel my hands as it was so cold, so will go back out in the morning to have another bash.

It's always the trivial little things that cause delays ....

Re: SV refurb questions
 

you cant 'tap' impact drivers, its not how they work.

if you dont have the front and rear wheels on then i would suggest that you fit them back on and put the bike on the ground in first gear. you cant apply enough force on bolts with a bike on stands. always loosen bolts before you put a bike on stands. ALWAYS PUT THE BIKE IN GEAR.

Re: SV refurb questions
 

I found an old thread from 2013, which suggests that these bolts seizing is pretty common.

I put the wheels back on and took it off the stands so I could give it more than a gentle tap with the impact driver. Still no movement at all (but at least I didn't whack my fingers in the process). So, it looks like the drill is going to be pressed into action.

Re: SV refurb questions
 

A slight bit of success. Right hand bolt off (eventually), so I removed the forks, but with the mudguard still attached to the left fork.

Not ideal, but I can now put it in vice and access the bolt more easily. It just means I'll need to support the mudguard so it doesn't get damaged.

It'll be worth the hassle in the end ....

Re: SV refurb questions
 

@buckstone what make is your front stand? cant use mine with ABS so need one like you have.