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Re: Project: 500GP
Subscribed. Interesting little thing.
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Re: Project: 500GP
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Re: Project: 500GP
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Re: Project: 500GP
Awesome, thanks for that!
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Re: Project: 500GP
One of the things I would like to do with this project is to apply some of the tricks that I have learned from the 250 build as well as working on SV's and others over the years. One of those things is to strip some of the heavy parts out of the engine while it is still in the frame as its not going to move around to much.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscexnof38.jpg So with that in mind the first thing to remove is the alternator rotor. I locked the crank by slipping a 2p between the clutch and the primary drive once I removed the clutch cover. This enabled me to remove the nut. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspgpyxls5.jpg However to pull the rotor off the crank I didn't know if I would have the tool as there is little information on line around for what I would need. Yambits that I used for a fair amount of parts for the 250 don't list the YSR, however I used their puller for the 250 so with that part number I searched their store and found that lots of bikes have that puller listed. Turns out Yamaha thought about these things and the puller I already had was the correct size. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psv3ghwawu.jpg So the rotor came off very easy. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pslikbdj4y.jpg Now moving on to the clutch side taking the pressure plate off was was easy revealing 2 friction plates, 2 plain plates, and some rubber dampers. But then I hit an issue; I couldn't remove the primary drive nut. The 2p I used to lock the crank is looking very second hand now, the ratchet couldn't move the nut, the small breaker bar couldn't move the nut, the 2' breaker bar only put the 2p through the gears, and the impact gun only worked to fire the 2p out of the engine along with the kickstart mechanism. Time for plan E. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pslbtch8f2.jpg First, remove the head and then the barrel. This was straight forward, but one nut was rusted onto the stud. A quick check on Fowlers reveals that its no longer available from Yamaha so that will need to be looked at later. And there wasn't a base gasket on the barrel, odd. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pspawqcnd7.jpg So with the barrel off I could remove the piston allowing me to do something I wouldn't recommend as a method of locking a crank as there is a risk you can damage parts. But using two spanners to provide a flat surface and an extension bar through the small end I rotated the crank until it locked and this was enough to the take the nut off with no damage showing to the cases http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps78jlbvug.jpg Now while doing my pre-removal check to ensure nothing unexpected is still attached to the engine I took a closer look at the crank seal on the left hand side revealing a leak. I think I've found the source of where the oil has been dripping from. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psuajkind5.jpg Finally using my scissor lift I removed the engine from the frame. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseaeyedoa.jpg |
Re: Project: 500GP
With the engine out of the frame it made its way to the work bench.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps18dzorpp.jpg Splitting the cases is a simple case of removing the screws on the left hand side and then lifting the case half off. However a point of reference don't try and lift the left side off the right. This makes perfect sense as the bolts are on the left, however all that will happen is you will spend a good 30 minutes occasionally getting a little gap between the halves only to be increasingly frustrated. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psi33uoln6.jpg But if you read the shop manual properly eventually you flip the engine over and quickly remove the right hand side from the left. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmrz1dlrc.jpg The gear box shafts, drum, and selector forks simply lifted out. The crank was a little more challenging and was pressed out. This is going to be rebuilt. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psujvnpngl.jpg It would appear that the mains are going to need replacing; but then that was expected, didn't expect that cleaning up the cases would take as long as it did. WD40 and elbow grease was in abundance. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psumjps7nh.jpg All of the bearings were pressed out of the cases and the seals pulled. Some easier then others. That was the left main seal, it came out like that so wasn't really doing much. Surprised the engine ran, but I think that explains the leak, just not how there was so much oil coming out. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psczmi7gan.jpg The clutch cover needed to be disassembled by removing the oil pump. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskcggl91i.jpg Which allowed me to remove the paint on the covers and cases using cellulose thinners. I then masked up the parts that I didn't want to paint and with a tin or two of aluminium engine paint had my own Banksy moment. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmwqikwq4.jpg I baked them at 200°c for 1 hour to cure the paint. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrxpfrddp.jpg The crank needs to be rebuilt and the barrel rebored then I can put it back together. |
Re: Project: 500GP
Great thread
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Re: Project: 500GP
With the paint drying its time to turn my attention back to the empty frame.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8n4s2fug.jpg Now I'll save you all of the hundreds of photos I took along the way as I stripped the frame down and just give you the highlights as it were. The more I looked at the overspray from the paint and the light surface rust on the frame the more I knew that something had to be done. I was considering painting the frame as I'd not done that before but decided that powder coating was probably going to be the easiest and more resilient option as I'd found a good company to do it with the TZR. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psilqthmvc.jpg Before I can take the frame away I needed to sort a sticker out. Near the headstock is this little blue and white sticker, and I think its quite cool and something that I'd like to preserve on the bike. But it cant go through powercoating. Thankfully I managed to remove it with a sharp Stanley knife blade without damage. But I'm going to have to do something with it before it goes back on. That plan is in the works. But anyway, what is the sticker I hear you ask? Well a little googling tells me its some sort of anti-theft scheme from Japan. Basically if it gets sold you can contact the scheme to ensure that its legitimate and that the owner has the right to sell it as I understand it. The best thing about it is the the numbers on the bottom have some meaning and shows that the bike was at some point and originally registered with the scheme from the Fukuoka prefecture. Awesome. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseds0xgld.jpg Not so awesome was the lower fairings upper mounts. That doesn't look factory to me. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psio4nhenq.jpg And the other side was even worse. It would appear that at some point for some reason the brackets mounting tabs were removed and then replaced with this monstrosity held in with self tapping screws. If anyone has a template of the correct tab it will be much appreciated... |
Re: Project: 500GP
Back to stripping the bike and my attention turned to the forks. When I bought the bike the previous owner said he investigated them as they only have a spring in the right fork he wanted to see if he could fit one to the left fork. He concluded that he couldn't. I can't be sure who but someone who had previously been into the forks had failed to use the correct sized socket on the top bolts as they were damaged. Not hugely but enough to annoy me, the trouble is they are no longer available from Yamaha. So the first thing is to see what the bolts are by removing them, this needed to be done anyway as I need to take the forks apart.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrevgyuyg.jpg And this is where I hit a problem. My god were those bolts tight, not even my big breaker bar could shift them. So the rattle gun came out again. Unfortunately the previous damage to the bolt head on the right resulted in the first attempt being a failure as the socket didn't seat properly almost rounding the bolt off. Thankfully the second attempt succeeded. However on the left the smoke coming from the tube after taking the bolt out indicated a problem, the thread inside the tube and on the bolt had stripped. I have a plan for this though. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgpmjeifj.jpg Anyway frame off. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnse70uge.jpg And I thought I'd use a bearing puller to take the races out of the head. Worked fine and was a little easier then the old hammer and punch. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscuzn0ybn.jpg I did use the hammer and chisel on the lower race, first time I've done one of those. Not to bad you just have to get over the fact you're smashing a great big chisel into a yoke. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfpm2olao.jpg So that just left the forks to strip, the left without the spring. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnmxp24nj.jpg And the right with. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psyemzqn9k.jpg Now I did my investigation of why you can't have a spring in the left, its because the fork lower doesn't have a spacer for it. This spacer is welded into the leg. Why Yamaha decided only to do one is something I can't understand as I doubt that adding the other spring would have bankrupted the company. |
Re: Project: 500GP
Squirrel
You should be able to bribe stretch to weld some up Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/302086566769 found these looking for copying Or...http://tractechmfg.com/product-category/ysr50/ Been doing the same as I'm potentially picking up a grey 400 for restoration Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk |
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