Pointy SV650 Front Header Bolts
 

I need to replace the front header pipe (just the first section that bolts onto the cylinder) as a kerb put a 90 degree bend in it many months ago. I don't fancy dealing with seized bolts etc so I'm just going to cough up bring it to a garage. As warmer weather is approaching and the bent has caused the pipe to lean on the oil cooler, I think it's safer to get it sorted sooner rather than later.

I need help selecting the correct bolts though. I've had these on my ebay watch list for a while, but something tells me they might not be long enough?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Suzuk...19.m1438.l2649

If those aren't the correct ones, can somebody point me in the right direction. I haven't even looked on Fowlers parts in fear of the bolts being listed for extortionate prices.

Thanks in advance.

Re: Pointy SV650 Front Header Bolts
 

stay away from titanium.

the front and rear bolts are different lengths

suzuki part numbers
Front 09106-08165 £4.79 each
Rear 07130-0825B £3.29 each

Re: Pointy SV650 Front Header Bolts
 

Thank you! Out of curiosity, what's the reason for staying away from titanium? I recently installed titanium bolts on my rear brake disc and one of my front brake disc's...

Also, does anybody know if the whole exhaust system will have to come off (will I need to replace the rear bolts too in that case?)? And if so, I assume I'll have to purchase new gaskets and anything else that might be needed?

Thanks in advance

Re: Pointy SV650 Front Header Bolts
 

its not so much galling as galvanic corrosion. all metals react different when they come in contact with each other. any form of aluminium will "anodise" and if one surface is not "fixed" it will slowly eat into the other surface which will sort of weld the two together.

this can also happen on bare aluminium when it comes in contact with other substances such as water and salt and a classic example of this is the build up of oxidisation behind calliper brake piston seals.

funnily what we call anodising is no more than a pre oxidisation of an aluminium surface which is then sometimes dyed and then fixed, but its still a surface of corrosion. if the skin of the fixed surface is broken then further oxidisation will take place. this in turn will seize the surfaces (threads) together, just like steel and rust but at a much higher rate of time.

to stop the corrosion (anodising) a barrier surface has to be used and this is usually in the form of a lubricant with the most common being copper grease.

btw, stainless steel and aluminium have a pretty violent reaction with each other so you must always use a barrier lubricant.

Re: Pointy SV650 Front Header Bolts
 

Thanks for the information, that's a lot of science I've never thought about before.

Looking at the different exhaust gaskets, and if the whole system will have to come off, it looks like I'll need 3 gaskets(?). 2 minimum if just the front pipe will come off. The big "exhaust silencer gasket seal" that I've discovered on ebay has introduced more headache with finding out which parts I need.

Re: Pointy SV650 Front Header Bolts
 

you need the front and rear port gaskets (dont get the round copper shizz) and you will need the connection collars if yours are damaged, but in most cases they can be reused.

if you take the exhaust apart properly you dont need to take the rear "stubby" pipe off which saves on buying or trying to replace the rear port gasket which is a fekin nightmare.

Re: Pointy SV650 Front Header Bolts
 

Sorry, I don't mean to be an annoyance but I'm pretty clueless right now. While I normally work on my bike with no issue, this is a job I'm not prepared to take on. A mechanic can take my money.

I assume these are suitable for the front and rear ports (doesn't say in the description, but I'm hoping they're not the round copper shizz you mentioned):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-SV...gAAOxyaTxTP-s9

As for the connection collars, those are the things on each header pipe that the bolts go through to hold secure the pipes into the cylinders? In that case, I doubt they're damaged but the new (used) pipe I bought came with one.

By taking the exhaust off properly, I assume you mean by unbolting the downpipes and taking the exhuast system off at just that (not messing with where the pipes join into 1)/the bit that you chop off for installing a slip-on.

So as it stands, my shopping list should be:

Front bolts
Rear bolts
Those gaskets that I linked

And I'll have to make sure I tell the mechanic not to mess with the "stubby" pipe. (still not entirely sure what that part is).

Once again, sorry for sounding like such a noob. I maintain my bike myself and work on it myself where I can, but this is all too much for me :lol: