Subframe removal problems.
 

Firstly, hello... I hate my first post to be a cry for help without a formal introduction over Martinis but...

Having, as I do, a k3 pointy, I'm afflicted by a steel subframe which is now rusty. After a little research, the best advice I could find was to remove it, powder coat it and then pop it back on, no problem, a job easy enough for a mechanical illiterate like me to handle (which, by the way, was not nearly as easy as I was led to believe) but after a couple of hours work, I was down to the last two bolts, either side of the subframe. These bolts had apparently been torqued by Zeus which has exposed me to a new form of misery, that of the joy of a stuck bolt beginning to turn before immediately snapping.

The situation is that one bolt is snapped, the other's head is beginning to turn to mush and the subframe is still on the bike.

If the more charitable and intelligent (and probably good looking) amongst you wouldn't mind answering a few questions...

1. What am I missing that makes these bolts impossible to remove with a socket and ratchet?

2. Where's the best place to get some new bolts, and what size/strengh should I get?

3. What's the best way to remove the bolts which are now effectively screwed (but not in a good way)?

4. How do I find a true and lasting love?

Cheers.

Re: Bolt Trouble or Turning, Turning, BANG
 

1, 2 and 3 are easy answers...4 is impossible...sorry.

Re: Bolt Trouble or Turning, Turning, BANG
 

Which bolts are they exactly? I snapped one on the subframe, and there was enough thread on the other side to screw it out the other way with some mole grips and some patience. Once the head is snapped off, there wont be much torque there to hold it.

Id get replacements from a dealer for a few quid, give them a phone. Check ronayers.com for a fiche with part numbers.

Where abouts are you? Perhaps a nice orger is nearby...

Re: Subframe removal problems.
 

I'm guessing Zeus (or king Kongs little mechanic brother) did up the main mounting bolts.

There is many ways to get it out.

- It should be relatively loose in the frame as the torque point has been removed, so a pair of mole grips probably do it.
- If not a sharp left handed drill bit should un screw it.

And now onto your questions:

Re: Subframe removal problems.
 

hth :d

Re: Subframe removal problems.
 

Thanks for all the replies, it's massively appreciated.

I thought that a dealer would be the best option for buying the bolts, but thought I'd ask anyway.

It's the lower bolts either side of the bike which attach the subframe to the frame, with the right hand side being the one which has snapped. I don't seem to be able to get at the bolt with mole grips so I'm leaning towards using a reverse thread bolt remover, which seems to be the easier option, especially since the bolts are already hollow. (Any recommendations on what I should buy or what I need to look for when buying a remover would be appreciated.)

Again, massive thanks for the advice...except on finding love, but at least no one suggested I just be myself. I did once fall in love with a cross eyed woman, but I think she was seeing someone else.

Re: Subframe removal problems.
 

does the same bolt hold the rear brake fluid reservoir up on the reverse side? If it does, remove that nut, and screw it out the other side. No point buying tools unless you have to. Where abouts are you?

Re: Subframe removal problems.
 

Yeah, that's the bolt that's snapped, I haven't been able to do anything the last couple of days due to work and rain (I don't have a garage, the bike is under a rain cover at the moment) and it could be a few more days before I can make any progress. I'm in NE England, I'm trying to learn to do this sort of thing myself and I'm not ready to swallow my pride and admit defeat yet.

Re: Subframe removal problems.
 

where about in the North East are you?

There is a couple of us that far north

Re: Subframe removal problems.
 

It's been ages, but I have an update...

The bolts are out. The bike is back together. The subframe is still rusty.

The mushed bolt wasn't entirely rounded and was basically pushing the socket off as I tried to turn it. The original plan was to douse it in WD40 and then lightly clamp the end of a breaker bar to the bolt, but as it happens I didn't need the clamp.

The snapped bolt unscrewed from the other side with mole grips (cheers, Nelson!)

Once the bolts were out and the subframe was loose, I couldn't get the under tray, subframe and electrical what-nots separated and although someone is going to tell me "it's easy, you just need to blah blah blah..." I gave up and put the bike back together. I've missed the bike, and seeing it back together made me feel much better and soothed the sense that my utter failure to rain vengeance upon the rust which has afflicted humanity since the iron age had dishonoured my ancestors.

I just want to say a massive thanks to everyone for you help and suggestions and the offers to come and sort it out for me it really is appreciated.

Finally, the lessons I've learned...

1. There is no such thing as too much WD40.

2. Breaker bars are awesome, 2" is the ideal length, conferring upon the user, superhuman strength via the mystical physical property of leverage. More than 2" is just making up for something else, owning a shorter bar makes you less of a man.

3. Nothing lasts forever.