rear brake pins
 

Finally got round to replacing my pads this evening only to find i cant remove the old buggers cos the pins have rusted and seized in the calliper....

i got the download form the FAQ section which suggests drilling through the other side of the calliper and persuading them out that way.

Anyone else tried this? also does the k3/4 sv use the same calliper or does it have a better mechanism for holding the pads in place?

was just thinking that if i somehow manage to make a mess of this, then id just get a k3/4 calliper as replacement. if theyd fit...

SV front calipers are the same as bandit 6.
The SV rear caliper is the same as bandit/TL/GSXR. You can get a spare rear caliper off ebay/breakers for about £25-
Get the caliper off, spray well with WD40 or releasing fluid and then "persaude" with a pin punch and hammer.

I had this problem too. You have to keep the pins well greased in copper slip.

The pins go into a blind hole, so you can't punch them out from the other side.

You can drill from the blind side, that will give you the chance to punch them out but you wont be able to use the original type of brake pins as there would no longer be anything to stop them from sliding right through except the R clip. This might not happen when the pads are new, but as they wear down the backing plates move inwards allowing the pin and R clip to also move more, to the point where the pin might come out of the outside hole. I think the writer who did this used different longer pins with a head on.

In my case I had given up trying to use the gentler methods such as heat, releasing fluid etc. I could see that the pins were going to break before they came out.

I split the caliper into it's two halves, giving better access to the pins. I then cut the pins off flush with the caliper body. I then drilled out new holes in excatly the same positions and to the same depth as the originals. Usually when I do this on other rusted pins the drill pulls out the remains but not this time, they were far too gone.

Put it all back togther and put in new pins.

Been fine every since, although I slap pently of copper slip on them. If they mechanics at Carnells had done a proper job on the PDI, then they would have greased them before selling the bike and I'd never been in this position.

John

I had the same problem, Steve Jordan noticed it when servicing the bike. 3hrs later.... he'd drilled through the back etc.
Why is it that manufacturers don't coppagrease everything before they sell their bikes! :****ed:

buy the correct seal for the rear caliper and split it in half so much easier but it oues mean you have to re bleed the system. this only works on the rear though

Stoopid pins siezed on the holes..have hacksawed thru the pins and split the calipers then drilled out the pins and replaced with new. Changed the seal and reassembled ..brakes would work if only i could get some sorta bite on the pads. Will try and bleed the brakes for the nth time..:(

The drilling part is easy ..my probs at the mo seem to be bleeding..good luck :lol:

I gave up!

Went to my local breaker and got a lovely and clean one for 20 squid!
end of story!

I even painted it gold while it was off the bike! looks lervly & matches the front golden calipers!!!

Just copper slip everything when you put it back together!!!

I think if ever i buy a new bike i will dismantle it and rebuild it properly!!!

err all methods i used have already been said,

Alex

Would it not be possible to drill a smaller hole and punch it out that way, while still leaving enough material to hold the replacement pin/reconditioned original pin?

Bike is finally back on the road :D :D
After moving the caliper up and bleeding I did manage to get some bite. Note to myself..always check brake before and after ride. I still had air in brakes hence loss braking but after a bit more bleeding now have functioning brakes. I like the idea of picking up some at the breakers only wished id thought of that first before doing a 5min job ;)

I didnt fancy doing too much distructive work on the calipers but agree punching the pins out wouldve been easier.

Remember that there are 2 nipples on the rear caliper for bleeding. Dont worry i forgot as well.

I was the one that done the drilling thing. Its the easiest way. Now when i need to put new pads in, remove r clip and tap out pins, job done.