Headstock bearings
 

where is the best place to buy headstock bearings from and how easy/hard are they to replace (being reasonably competent with tools n stuff). just had a service and was told they could fail the mot which is in 2 weeks.

Suzuki are best but not cheap. M&P will do some cheaper pattern ones.
Fitting isn't that hard, but you will have to remove the whole front end.
Don't even think about it without a Haynes or Owner manual for reference.
Torque wrench is essential bit of kit for re-assembly.

Cheers Burner. I will probably have a crack myself then as iv had no problem stripping the front end to work on the forks in the past, although this didnt involve removing yokes and stuff. Do the clocks and lights have to come off too?
Iv got two nice new torque wrenches just the other week and have got the suzuki workshop manual too so ill do some reading up whilst i wait for the bearings to arrive.

does anyone know if there is a way to remove the steering stem nut from the headstock without using the 'special' tool as stated in the manual? probably a hamer and screwdriver would work to get it off but im thinking more about doing it up again to the right torque.

No, although the whole fairing may have to come off, or maybe just the screen and leave the nose cone on.

I use water pump pliers, but if it's tight a small persuasion with a brass rod and my copper mallet.

Yup, I tapped mine off (and the new ones on) with a punch.

I used a Koyo roller bearing for the bottom one to match the custom top one for the GSXR yoke. The Koyo one is the same spec as standard only roller instead of ball. The jury seems to be out on which is better for this application, though, lots of contradictory "facts" out there.

The best way to save lots of cash when buying ANY bearings is to forget about your Suzuki dealer or any other bike related outlet. If you can read or obtain the code number for any bearing you can get along to your local Engineer supplier and they will have them or can get them. Bearings are bearings at the end of the day.The code indicates all the specifics of the individual item.
Dont be a mug and pay stupid money I say! :shock: 8)

I agree with Peter, bearings aren't rocket science, go to a bearing factor and save lots of money.

Go and buy a 'C' spanner, perhaps not absolutely necessary, but it's a whole lot easier to adjust the bearings when fitted with one, and you definately don't want to overload the new bearings and have them prematurely go the same way as the old ones.

Fitting tip 1. Make sure that you keep the races square as you drive them out/in, the frame is soft material and I've seen a couple that have been driven out so cocked that the recess has been damaged enough that the new race won't fit square in the headstock.
Fitting tip 2. Grind a few thou off the outer circumference of the old bearing race - voila! a perfect fitting tool for driving the new one in.

I think a friend may be able to get me some trade now i think about it. Does anyone happen to know the bearing numbers or would they be in the book?

Are 'C' spanners a standard tool or a one size fits all job and also dos the nut need to be to a specific torque or is it just tightened to suit the bearings :?

Good tips by the way Sid