USB Power from bike battery for Garmin i3
 

Hi All,

I've bought a Garmin i3, very pleased with the little unit, and have managed an excellent mounting solution through a nice chap in this forum! I'm aware that there is a mod to fit a headphone jack but I'm not keen on voiding the warranty just yet, so I'd like to provide onboard power from the motorcycle battery (as this will boost the volume - at the moment I can't hear much above 25-30mph).

Does anyone know where I can find/make a lead that will attach onto my bike battery (12V), then step down to 5V for the i3, and terminate in the appropriate 'miniUSB' connector (preferably 90degree connector for better wire routing)??

One possible approach would be to fit cigarette lighter socket and use the bundled cigarette lighter adaptor, although I would quite like to 'hardwire' the bike with a lead standing by for use once on the mount, and retain the Cigarette lighter adaptor for use in my car.

Still would prefer, bike batt to regulator to 5V to miniUSB solution if there is one, and not need to use cigarette lighter socket, though I guess this could be useful e.g. for charging up mobile phone while on tour.


Any help appreciated, cheers!

Chris.

Buy another lighter adapter and cut the end off, fit wires from that to battery. Sorted.

Maplins do a simple female cigarette lighter adapter. From there, you can get a kit to power usb devices from a car cigarette socket. From there you can convert to a mini usb connector/cable. That way, you can disconnect everything easy and transfer to the car, and you can charge the battery using the socket.

I've a I3 fitted, but find it runs for hours on rechargeable AA's so have not bothered to seek a permanent supply. That said, I do have a 5v 1amp supply on the bike, for the gps speed camera warning gizmo, ( dont trust the one on the I3 ), thats all concealed in the nose of the fairing, using the sidelamp supply for the 12v, that way its swithed with the ignition.

don't think I can just cut it...
 

I don't think you can cut the end off another cigaretts lighter adaptor, as the Garmin requires 5V (USB) not 12V which apparently fries it :shock: :!:

I too have it running on rechargables, but that sorts my capacity issues out with 6-8hrs off one set, but having the unit powered significantly increases the volume, and will move it from 25-30mph up to 35-40 I would guess which would really help with town driving.....

Go to ebay and get a ciggy adapter for USB, it basicly looks like a ciggy adapter with a USB slot on the top.

Basicly one of these together with a accesory plug fused (make sure the fuse is rated less than the wire) and connected to the battery.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=8800674595

I've got a GArmin i3, how do you mod the mounting and fit a headphone?
Anybody?

this is off topic
 

this is off topic but...

Razor, have a look here:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/garmin-gps/garmin-i3/

Bear in mind this will invalidate your warranty!

Now, back to the topic...

TSM, can you run that by me again? Do I dismatle the cigarette lighter part, where does the fuse go?

Cheers

Get a accessory plug from Maplins along with a inline glass type fuse holder and a 5-10amp fuse & possably some ring terminals things. Put the fuse inline on the live wire & connect to the battery & locate the plug where you need it. Get the adapter that i listed the link for, this will do the voltage change for you down to 5v. It will basicly power anything that would work off the USB bus.

OK, but....
 

OK cheers, that's one option.

I would still prefer a solution that completely removes the need for any cigarette lighter connection point, as this is a bit messy and probably the worst possible connection for vibration/use on a bike.

Would much rather a simple wire with a tiny step down bit of circuitry terminating in a miniUSB. I already have 12V pumping around the bars to power the heated grips, so could possibly tap off from that.

Or other option is to move the existing optimate hardwire charger lead from behind the airbox cover to up near the bars (then I can share the connection point as will not need to power SatNav and Optimate battery at the same time).

If I can find the 'tiny step down bit of circuitry', I can do the rest....though a nicely made complete solution would be the best!

C.