Clicky Emulators.
 

I have new (i.e. non OE) springs and emulators fitted to my front forks.

I changed the seals the other week and fitted 15w oil whilst I was at it (previously 20w and felt too stiff to me). After reassembling the first leg, I gave it a try by hand (i.e. still out of the bike and just put my weight on it). There was a definite stick, then a ‘click’ (both audible and physical sensation) then the suspension started to move. I assume that was the emulator valve opening. It was the same on the fork I hadn’t dismantled, so I presumed at the time it is just how they were and not that something hadn’t gone back together properly.

Oh and I have set the emulators to 2-turns as recommended from someone on here.

Anyhow, is this just simply what they are like or should I re-visit the forks?

I am going to go to 7.5w oil too as I still think the front is too stiff for my liking. Or should I back the emulators right off? I presume it is the ‘preload’ on the emulators that sets the threshold at which the emulator opens!?

Never run an emulator set up myself ,but, obviously there will be something to overcome before the valve opens - I would have thought that 15W oil was way too heavy for your set up though 12.5W was what I ran in a standard set up and that was good. 7.5 sounds about right.

Re: Clicky Emulators.
 

I recently noticed the click sound/sensation. Don't know what it is but for some reason it doesn't bother or worry me too much. Changing the valve spring preload affects only compression damping, altering the oil affects both compression and rebound damping. For colder climates like up there 15w and 1+1/2 rounds should be good.
Here for Greece 20w and 1+3/4 rounds are good albeit they get too stiff in winter but then again I don't do any serious riding during winter.

According to the tuning notes that come with the emulators, more emulator valve spring preload gives more compression damping and can be set from 0 to 7 turns. The oil viscosity is used to set the rebound and from 5w to 30w can be used. I thought that they were too firm as well until I had the static sag adjusted correctly using the correct length main spring preload spacer. It is a lot of fiddling, but once it is right, it is *really* right!

Cheers guys.

I have actually now stripped the forks and reassembled with 7.5w oil and the emulators preload wound right off (thanks for the tip that it can be used from 0-7, I have had a debate about that in another thread ;) ).

The suspension is much softer now, but perhaps still a little over sprung, but hey!!! Also there isn’t really enough rebound (for the spring) … So I either want to go a bit thicker on oil, or get a softer spring! Softer springs is what I would ideally need/like, but as that is costly, I’ll probably go for 10w oil.

Good to hear that you are homing in on the ideal. A spring matched to your weight really is the perfect solution. I have 0.8kg/mm springs and will probably adjust the emulator to 2.5 turns preload, and use 10w oil and see how it goes...

ta :)

ohh thats an idea :idea: , if somone wants to go stiffer ... my set are 85 springs (.85kg/mm), anyone got some 80s they want to swap?!!? :) I presume they are the same length??

The click is presumably the emulator - it opens for high-speed comp damping, the little hole in the hat of it is for low speed damping (as I understand it - Rob may come on any minute and tell us the truth), so it depends how fast you were bouncing it I think. Not noticed it on mine.

After a bit more research and a bit more talking with the Racetech folk, I ended up doing the opposite to what I said above. I now have changed the 15w 2 turn emulator preload setup for 20w and 1.5 turns. The difference is very significant. The bike feels more stable all round and no longer wants to fall into slower turns.

Cool :thumleft:

The springs are too stiff in mine for my liking (85s), by reducing the damping significantly I have been ‘bodging’ it to soften the front really. But it has worked, it is much more rideable now \:D/

What made you change tack?