Cheap Alarm : Fitted Update
 

I'm one for a damn good bargain (as testified by the fact I just recently bought a Loobman instead of a Scottoiler - btw, if anyone wants pic's I'll happily oblige).

Whilst browsing around the 'tinternet for an alarm for my new K6, I found this. While the Cyclone C-11 might not be recognised by insurers (I'm not sure yet, haven't talked to my insurance co), surely it's a better deterrant than nothing. For £26.99 inc delivery (speaking version), I'm not complaining. Even though they have said they haven't got any available for a week.

Just figured I'd share this for any of you guys like me, mere mortals that want to spend three figure sums on alarms, but have a family, house, etc & your postman only ever delivers letters in brown envelopes :(

If anyone is unsure of fitting etc, just hold off a while & I'll post back when I've fitted it.

I could not stand my bike saying "Welcome to the cyclone C11 alarm system" when i turn it on.

:) let me know how you get on whith this, like you not paying £300 for an alarm

I'm very nifty with a soldering iron, a digital multimeter, and an EEPROM programming kit. I don't intend to have the factory default vocals for long (maybe something like knight rider but haven't put much thought into it yet). I suppose just not recording a volcal for ignition start might work, but I might have to put a JMP sequence in.

Regardless, for the sake of having an alarm on it and it not costing the earth, I'm not that scared of ?!#%ing it up.

Kilted, if my progress with the EEPROM goes well, I could even start marketing them (with manufacturer premission obviously)... prototype costs expected to be around the £10 mark inc P&P.

I thought that, or it telling me to "Please arm the alarm" as i walk away for a minute.

Other than that the first non chatterbox version seems too cheap to be true. Remote engine start, anti hijack etc. The sort of features you'd expect on something 10x the price.

OOOh, see now if i knew how to record what i want it to say i'd get one of those.
My mate has one that starts off nicely "This bike is alarmed, please move away fron the bike" in a very friendly but firm tone of voice.
Then "This vehicle is alarmed, moved away NOW!" followed a fews seconds later by "I TOLD YOU TO GET THE F**K AWAY FROM THIS BIKE, NOW MOVE IT!!!!" and a split second later the very loud police siren type alarm goes off. :lol:

All very possible Spidey, just a matter of know-how. To be honest, I'm a complete noob when it comes to bikes (mainly lacking tools/time/confidence), but electronics is a different story. Give me a bunch of wires, components & a lot of solder, and I'll build you a super computer (although, you'd need to buy a warehouse to keep it in).

I'll keep you posted as to how I get on, and obviously I need the kit in front of me before I know for sure, but what I'm expecting is to be able to re-code any MP3 (or CD etc) & write it to a replacement EEPROM chip. Basically, copy the old chip, overwrite the relevant parts, and replace the new chip in the socket. Job done (hopefully). Reversee engineering can be a bit hit & miss though.

Edit: Anyway, I suppose I'd best get on with my work....

Seems very cheap. if thier claims are to be believed, then it should be ok. Sort of the Harry moss/Sparkrite of the bike alarm!

The remote start won't work on a carbed bike as you may need the choke, but all good for, as you say a deterrent.

Also, my current insurer approves it and offeres a discount....probably only once installed with by an approved installer.

I have an alarm on my SV, but might get one for the girlfireds bike, the non talking one.

Now thats a good idea, but.... And i think its a big but, most manufs cover the board in epoxy to stop peeps playing around like that and also tampering.

True enough, but I do quite a bit of work in this field (I also make/repair/design building security sytems for a friend who runs his own consultancy company). I've got a few bottles of EPOSOLVE 25036 kicking around for just this eventuality. Soak the PCB in this wonderful liquid, rinse, wipe off any residue, clean board. Just put epoxy back on when you're done.

If anyone's interested in some, I usually get it from the states, but there's companies like Miller Stephenson in the UK.