Cam chain tensioners on a K3
 

Hi all,

I have searched the depths of the archive (including both my Haynes and the Suzuki manual) and I can't find the relevant section on adjusting the chain tensioners! I have read a lot on this site regarding the tensioners and curvy's but no way near as much on pointies - is there much difference?

If someone could point me in the right direction in the Haynes of Suzuki manuals - then that would be great. Thanks

Luke :D

ps - I have tried Red Ones trick of putting the bike into second and rolling it backwards, but that hasn't got rid of the tapping!

Luke

the tensioners on the Pointies are quite different from the Curvies.

The Curvies work on the principle of a screw based ratchet.

The Pointies (K3's anyway) are a bit different, there is a bolt, that is used to compress a spring - that's all it does. The spring applies a force to a lug that in turn presses on the chain tensioning bar. The lug is on a ratchet, so cannot retract while in the engine.

You don't need any special tools, other than perhaps some ball-ended hex tools because they're rather difficult to get to.

Okay, I have now checked these. I figured that since I could find very little on pointies chain tensioners when searching, it may be worth writing something about it.

My thinking was that since I was getting various degree's of rattle it may be worth checking the tensioners. I know that bikes make noise, but at the very least I would get to learn something new about my bike.

Firstly they are very hard to get to - particularly the rear. This is accessible (just) by removing the rear wheel and the plastic mudflap. Even then it is tucked way back to the right of the shock (if looking at it from behind). The front requires the tank and airbox to be removed and ideally the throttle bodies, though I managed to get to it with them in place. Before touching them though it is worth noting that a Haynes manual is invaluable in terms of positioning the cams correctly before removing them.

My bike is a K3 with around 9000 miles. Haynes recommend that you buy new washers and gaskets when removing the tensioners. They say this about a lot of things, but in this circumstance you will need new gaskets. They are likely to be stuck to the block when you remove the tensioners and will break apart when you try and remove them.

The tensioners themselves are exactly as Billy had described them above. My thinking was that maybe the 'lug' had become stuck or the spring had broken which would prevent pressure being applied and the chain to rattle. However both tensioners were working perfectly and with the rocker covers off, you could visually see the difference in chain tension with them removed and installed. At this point I decided that since I had had the rocker cover off, it would be a good idea to check the valve clearances (One cylinder at a time). These were also fine.

At the moment I am waiting for some bits to arrive before I can start her up, but I'm guessing that the tapping will still be there as I haven't really changed anything. I know many of you will have said this from the start, but from my point of view, I like to see things for myself! The cost of 2 washers, 2 gaskets and a couple of hours was worth it.

Also, when you do take the tensioners off and the gasket does come away in pieces, make sure that you have every single last bit off it from both the engine and the tensioner. One small piece left on and it will leak oil regardless of how tight you screw them back in.

Just mucking about with them can help... I fitted a K3 tensioner to my front cylinder, and it was fine for a while then developed an erratic, louder-than-usual rattle. Took it off, monkeyed about with it, put it back in, and it was silent again. Obviously I claim all credit for fixing it ;)

As you should. Doesn't matter if you don't know how you did it does it. :lol: