re-springing a shock
 

I'm looking to re-spring the shock on my curvy - it's off an 06 zx10r which unfortunately has turned out to be notably softer at 8.3 kg/mm than the 04-05 model:

A link, like what would have been better to start with.

I am an, ahem, fuller-figured sort of chap, so I could do with something a bit firmer

anyone have any experience putting new springs on oem shocks? is it something I'm likely to be able to do myself or will it need specialist tools - eg spring compressors, etc ?

you would then need to have it revalved or the rebound and compression will be useless.

it's usable now with the softer oem spring - we're only talking about maybe +10-15% in spring rate - & I reckon I've got the shock slightly over-damped to compensate for the softer spring. so I get the former spring & wind off the damping a little - I don't see a problem with that. if it was too soft with the damping dialed in to maximum then sure, it would be no good, but there's loads of damping adjustment left

The opposite happened to me... bought a k6 gsxr shock hoping a softer less jumpy rear , and got a very stiff 9.4kg/mm shock :P

Wouldn't it be more cost effective just to get a different model shock??? and to flog yours?

Maxton will re-work shocks for you (if they are not a sealed unit I suppose). but to be honest I really don't think it is going to be cost effective to go that route ...

Swapsies then boys??? ;)

I'm not talking about getting anything major done to the shock innards - just swapping the spring & replacing it with a £20 job like this:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...code=FLK4S0150

could do - fancy it dotted? where are you - I'm in nw london?

Its not as simple as that, if you change the spring you need to get the valving/damping redone to suit too. Else you will end up with an under-damped shock ...

All that aside, at the end of the day presuming you paid a fair price for your shock, you could probably sell and buy another without any financial loss ... not even £20 ...

I went from a 450spring to a 650spring and the rebound was non existant even when on max so had to also be revalved.

I know what you're saying, but I would have thought that for +15% change in spring rate that the shock still has enough damping in hand to cover this. I have had a good play with the shock with the standard spring & the top end of the damping is absolutely rock solid

I'm quite happy to concede that re-valving a race shock would be necessary & desirable, but for a cheapie oem shock - & with me riding it - I doubt the difference would be noticable


well yes, but that's going +45% on the spring rate, that's a huuuuuge change, I'm not suprised that the required damping was outside the max of the shock

I guess my point is why take the risk? If nothing else you are reducing the usable band of adjustment.

But if you want to remove the spring you will need some spring compressors.

There is a lot of energy in a shock spring, so take what I am about to say as missadvice and get yourself the proper equipment ;) ...

Bad advice:- Get your ratchet straps .... 'ratchet' the rear end down on the bike/compress the shock ... get some more ratchet straps and use them on the spring, take out the slack. Then slowly release the strap holding the rear end down and remove the shock. It should stay compressed, common sense is then needed at every point as you now essentially have a loaded weapon ready to go off!! :shock:

Refitting the new spring ... not sure how u r gonna do that hopefully they will ratchet down?? ... but this ratchet strap method worked on a car suspension i needed to compress once to change a balljoint, so ratchet straps can take quite a bit of force! ;)