Cam swap for K2
 

right just looking into it... :lol:

basicly ive found out (from doing a search)


baisicly take a K3> intake cam put it on your intake on your K2< intake on the exhust... then throw away your k2< exhust cams (well sell em :lol: )

do the cams slot in if u get my drift ??

also has any one got a how too or guide of any form ???


thanks !!!!!

Yep, dead easy- there's a good guide on SV Rider but tbh it just put me off, it sounded so complicated. When I got into doing it I just did it by sense. It's basically: take out old cams, put new cams in pointing in the same directions. The timing markings go all to buggery on the exhaust side (I wrote DO NOT CHANGE CAM TIMING on the rear cam cover, just in case it ever gets anyone else servicing it, it'd be instant valve death :) )

And it's well worth doing, for £135 including the gaskets. Or you could get a used set- you can buy a whole K3 engine with a spun bearing for £100 and use the tensioners too, then sell the leftovers for half what you paid :) If you're in the vicinity of The Mass this might be worth bearing in mind.

Or you can do it with 2 sets of carbed model intake cams- I think Carsick has this, and maybe TSM too? It's not as good but the cams are cheap to buy, the broken engines are even cheaper. I sell them for £40-£50 when I've got them, which coincidentally, I do at the moment, hint hint ;)

And nobody can sell the exhaust cams :) A tuner could use them as a base for a custom grind but, well, I've got 3 sets of carbed ones and a set of injected ones, does anyone want them? No.

wel do you have the cams for a k3>??? ill have em off you if you have (well next month .....money lol) :lol:


so its a stright swap dont change buckets or anyting just the cams and as long as they are in the right way thats fine ????

oo also what is the right way ?

*runs off to ebay for a K3> engine lol*

I don't have spare K3s just now but like I say, the Mass has a whole engine that'd almost certainly do you fine- I was thinking of snaffling it and breaking it, but I'm a bit short of space to stash it just now. You'll want a set of new tensioner gaskets too, you might be able to reuse them but there's a good chance you won't, and you don't want to be stuck for the sake of a £6 gasket.

Oh aye, tensioners- the swap itself's dead easy, the monkeying about with tensioners is slightly less so- though if you swap for K3 at the same time that'd simplify it, they're easier to fit.

In principle you should change the buckets as it's a matched wear deal, but in practice I don't think many people do it- I didn't, the lifespan of those parts is immense anyway so the potential for a little accelerated wear doesn't really bother me in the slightest, chances are the cams and buckets will outlive the bike.

how much more power does this mod give you? is it worth doing and does it alter the charictoristics?
thanks

i c well due to my insurance n other stuff i gota pay off me credit card so thtl take a month or 2 but as soon as thats done i wona do this mod thats y im kinda researching lol!


ahh right so it is just a complete and utter straight swap how cool! can i use my tensioners or if i go with a K3> then do i have to use a k3> tensioners also when actually fitting them how will i know when they are lined up presuming i have to get my engine at TDC???

Other than the timing marks- I know I said that earlier but it's worth repeating :) front markers work perfectly, rear are all rubbish. No shock really :) And yep, you should do it all at TDC (I think... I'm not good with jargon)

The tensioners in my experience are an absolutely straight swap, done a couple and I know of plenty of other folks who have too... But I remember MikeNumbers posted once that he had some that wouldn't fit, and he's someone to listen to.

French, I don't have dynos, my "before" had its fuelling all mucked up by the airkit I had fitted :( But, what you get is a few bhp all over from around 5000, but much more importantly a wider peak of power- instead of going peak/fall off like it does standard, the bike holds onto the power so you get within a few bhp of peak for far, far longer. In real terms 5bhp on beak's not a big deal- you adapt to it in no time at all- but the broader peak stays useful long after the power's forgotten on the road. I didn't lose noticable power anywhere, though I'd kind of expected to.

Personally I reckon it's the best power mod there is for the SV- costs the same as a jet kit and filter alone, never mind a full system, and gives comparable power and better curve than a filter, kit and pipe usually will- and also without the setup time, since you've got no real adjustability.

You do lose the adjustable cam sprockets that you get with proper race cams- but the benefit to be had from those is fairly minimal, not worth paying 3 times as much for, for most of us. If it wins you a race instead of being .1 seconds behind the winner, that's worth it, but not if it shaves 5 seconds off my commute...

Arguably better to leave it alone :) It can scare insurers- but say "Cams from a more recent model" not "Stage 2 cams", if they don't know what you mean that tells you a lot about the sort of company you're dealing with, and if they do it'll probably work out cheaper.

Also, I always say handling work will pay off more... Putting power into a standard or even lightly tweaked SV is a bit daft IMO. No go without stop.