Fitting JHS ignition advancer to a Curvy
 

I've done a quick search but couldn't find anything on here so I apologise if this has been covered.

Can anyone provide me with a step by step or at least some pointers with regard to fitting a JHS ignition advancer to a curvy.

Cheers

Chris

This is the guide I used :

http://homepage.mac.com/reddog99/SV6...all/index.html

Did you get any instructions from JHS?
You can also look on the 'how to' section of the main site.... linky Is that what you need?

Looks like the one on the main site... Was this an easy mod? Did you do the TRE thingy for 1st / 2nd gear retard?

it's faaaaairly easy. Was the biggest job I'd done on the SV when I did it, and it did give me some hassle removing the rotor- the method in the guide didn't work, so I ended up faking up a rotor retainer with a big spanner and a brick. Other'n that, it was fairly plain sailing.

I'm sort of on the fence about how good it was, though... I was well impressed at the time but that was the Butt Dyno at work, so it could all be placebo effect ;) I'll be taking mine back out some time, since apparently they're pretty counterproductive in a more tuned engine. I loved it when I fitted it though :)

Thanks for the response guys, gonna give it a go in the next few weeks. Just wanted to be prepared so I knew exactly what I was getting myself into.

I did the cheap and cheerful method and slotted teh pick-up holes. You can just get 2deg advance (limited by the casting etc unless you want to do serious butchering, which defeats the object!).

Where it is immediately noticeable is just pulling away at lowish revs, it's definitely more "urgent".

The thing with advancing ignition is that there is an optimum value for any given engine speed and load, and if the stock calibration happens to be very close to this optimum anyway then you'll see/feel virtually no effect.

"Ignition sensitivity" depends how far away from optimum the ignition is, and the reason it tends to be retarded is usually one of "knock" (aka pinking or detonation - not to be confused with pre-ignition, something totally different).

At low speeds an engine will be more knock-limited on a given fuel/Compression ratio combination, and bike engines will be designed mainly for high revs so low speed ignition will probably be heavily knock limited, especially bearing in mind it's calibrated for 91RON fuel typically, so the calibration will be fairly well retarded. A couple of degrees here will be quite noticeable, and using 95 or 97RON fuel will mean there'll be no issues with knock anyway.

The only thing to contemplate is that advancing ignition will increase plug temp by something in the range of 10-15degC per degree of advance typically. I left the standard plug grades in, but using 4deg advance I'd feel happier going one grade colder (NGK "8" goes to a "9", Champion work the other way round :roll: )
Just bear in mind they will be more susceptible to cold fouling, so adopt a careful approach to cold starts, don't blip the throttle, don't leave it idling to warm up, get the choke off and ride off gently as soon as you can.

If removing the rotor, the usual practice is that the tapers should be degreased and scrupulously clean and dry when reassembling.

Hi RRmonkey

Did you get your advancer key from JHS or second hand? I cannot find that item on thier website.

Thanks

Re: Fitting JHS ignition advancer to a Curvy
 

There's a lot of stuff they seem to do that isn't on the website Luckypants, I just rang them and they sent them out.

Re: Fitting JHS ignition advancer to a Curvy
 

So embee, I gather from your post that I will most likely feel a benefit low down but little difference further up the rev range right? That's cool, low to mid is what I was after.
I'm trying to put a dedicated trackday bike together, so far have:

Full arrow system
BMC race filter
Dynojetted carbs (stage 3 apparently)
Will try to source some hens teeth, sorry, pointy cams (same difference ](*,))
Also have:
80 Ohlins / 15W oil forks
Galfer wave disks
Braided lines
Steering damper

Gonna get a ZX6 or 10 shock too when one comes up at the right price.

Should be a beauty when she done, just hope I can get her finished pretty quick and get some trackdays in over the summer.

Anyone recommend a good place fibreglass bodywork (single seat, full fairing)
Cheers Chris