SV650.org - SV650 & Gladius 650 Forum - View Single Post - K3

03-12-06, 01:40 PM

Ok I've been having a problem with the bike running really rough, so yesterday I finally got around to changing the plugs, oil, filters etc and things are running a bit smoother, but still the rear cylinder is intermittent.

I had the front tyre changed Friday and the guy in the shop was trying to tell me something that he had noticed moving the bike - he was saying it was only running on one cylinder when he started it, but revved it a bit and they both cut in - he thought it might be something to do with the Scottoiler and sucking air..... but I have checked the connection for the Scottoiler as it is connected to the vacum pipe on the rear cylinder and all looks fine. I was planning on removing it for now to see if it helped but it is so tight I could not manage to get it off.

Other things I have noticed/done:

The plugs that I changed were very black when I took them out.
Fuel consumption is about 30-35 mpg
Exhaust outlets both get hot
I have had the coil off and cleaned up the contacts etc
The cylinder seems to cut out when first starting, or when been running at speed then come to stop, say at traffic lights.
The Scottoiler is working fine, so the vacum seems to be intact.
I have tried taking the rear HT Lead off while running and can notice a difference but still seems to run fine on one cylinder
I have tried running the bike on Optimax fuel with Redex added to try and flush the Fuel system through just incase it was anything to do with that
I have had to increase the idle to about 1500 RPM to stop the stalling so often.
Can notice when the rear cylinder cuts out as the idle drops away to about 1000-1100 RPM, and at speed the bike feels lumpy - getting the odd spurt of power.

Does anybody know if there is a way of checking the coils to see if there is a problem? Should there be a certain resistance across them, voltage they produce etc?

Do these bikes have the same functionailty in the Engine Management System as cars do where they can be plugged in to a computer and they return the error codes for whats going on? I'm wondering as it may just be quicker and easier to take it in to a Suzuki Dealer and get them to diagnose the problem, as I know with the car it took them 10 minutes to find the problem while i waited.

Any help would be very welcomed.

03-12-06, 01:40 PM	#1
robertwo Guest Posts: n/a	K3 - Intermittent Firing on Rear Cylinder Ok I've been having a problem with the bike running really rough, so yesterday I finally got around to changing the plugs, oil, filters etc and things are running a bit smoother, but still the rear cylinder is intermittent. I had the front tyre changed Friday and the guy in the shop was trying to tell me something that he had noticed moving the bike - he was saying it was only running on one cylinder when he started it, but revved it a bit and they both cut in - he thought it might be something to do with the Scottoiler and sucking air..... but I have checked the connection for the Scottoiler as it is connected to the vacum pipe on the rear cylinder and all looks fine. I was planning on removing it for now to see if it helped but it is so tight I could not manage to get it off. Other things I have noticed/done: The plugs that I changed were very black when I took them out. Fuel consumption is about 30-35 mpg Exhaust outlets both get hot I have had the coil off and cleaned up the contacts etc The cylinder seems to cut out when first starting, or when been running at speed then come to stop, say at traffic lights. The Scottoiler is working fine, so the vacum seems to be intact. I have tried taking the rear HT Lead off while running and can notice a difference but still seems to run fine on one cylinder I have tried running the bike on Optimax fuel with Redex added to try and flush the Fuel system through just incase it was anything to do with that I have had to increase the idle to about 1500 RPM to stop the stalling so often. Can notice when the rear cylinder cuts out as the idle drops away to about 1000-1100 RPM, and at speed the bike feels lumpy - getting the odd spurt of power. Does anybody know if there is a way of checking the coils to see if there is a problem? Should there be a certain resistance across them, voltage they produce etc? Do these bikes have the same functionailty in the Engine Management System as cars do where they can be plugged in to a computer and they return the error codes for whats going on? I'm wondering as it may just be quicker and easier to take it in to a Suzuki Dealer and get them to diagnose the problem, as I know with the car it took them 10 minutes to find the problem while i waited. Any help would be very welcomed.