Quote:
Originally Posted by K
Part of it is a money saving thing, but mostly it's because I've never done anything that (sounds) that technical and want to a) give it a go, b) learn something and c) have an excuse to buy some tools or gidjits if needed. 
I guess the most advanced thing I've done is balanace the carbs on my MG - but even that was just looking at a little guage thingy and twiddling a couple of screws... and after 11 years of doing that, now it's simply a case of listening to them and twiddling a couple of screws. Though when I get her a new pair she'll sound different and it'll throw me right out. 
I've looked through the haynes idiot guide and it doesn't look that bad - but I still worry about messing something up when it comes to anything more than screw/bolt twiddling - i.e. taking important bits off and having to put them back on correctly! 
The head bearings are getting the faintest bit notchy, and I'm more confident about changing those than engine messing.
Just wondered if there were any obvious things to be careful with n stuff. |
Ah, sorry, got the wrong end of the stick - you want to DIY!!
So unless you are really keen to give it a crack, do the headrace if that is notchy and leave the engine alone!!
When you are nearer 30k, then go in and check, but although they could indeed be out now, it makes sense to go in there when they might actually need doing than disturbing the rocker gaskets etc when it is highly unlikely they will need changing!!
Anyway that is what I suggest, but if you simply want to get in there, then as long as you follow the manual to get the cams in the right positions, there isn't much you can c0ck up on simply checking them, so don't worry about it!!
Physically doing the shims is a lot more intense and not one of the nicest jobs!! But as long as you check and double check what you have done at every stage, perfectly 'doable' by any bidding home mechanic!!
Oh and if it has twin webbers is it an MGB??
