K the only things you'll need to do the checking are access to the cam's / the ability to slowly turn the crank and feeler gauges to measure the gaps.
being faired you'll have to remove panels obviously to gain access, and then the rocker cover (cam cover), unless you're very ham-fisted you won't damage the gasket as it's a rubber one and fairly robust, then remove the plug at the end of the crankshaft exposing a large bolt head.
I'm presuming you have a manual or at least what the useable range for the gap should be ?, rotate the crank until the lobe (bit that pushes down the valve) is facing away from the valve and the valve spring is extended as far as it can be, measure the gap (if it's easier draw a diagram of the layout and note by each one the size of gap), start with the smallest gauge (bottom of the range in the manual) and try that and work up using thicker gauges until you feel a slight drag on the gauge in the gap when checking (the next size up won't go in), that's the size, make a note.
do the same for all the rest ( you'll find the cam rotation puts pairs of valves in the same position so you can do two at a time).
A word of caution, as said use a degree of care with the gasket and don't damage the mating surfaces either, also be careful not to drop anything into the engine as pathways lead to the bottom end so what ever gets dropped could require stripping the engine to remove ( perhaps a bit of clean rag lightly stuffed in the holes if you're really worried about it (but remember to remove it after
). the crank plug also has an oil seal ("O" ring type), make sure that is clean before re-fit.
once complete, re-fit the rocker cover making sure the gasket is seated properly, re-fit the crank plug and test the engine.
you shouldn't need any oil, but do check the level after you finish (obviously before testing it).
With the rocker cover removed and full access the job should take no more than 30 minute to an hour to complete and only require basic tools*, as long as you take your time and work carefully it shouldn't be a problem.
As to whether it should be done at all ? it's a check, the manufacturers are somewhat conservative on there service schedules, however checking isn't a bad thing, rather do it and not need any adjustment than not IMHO, it's your bike taking the risk is yours, I would also add here if you want a decent resale at any time, under valve check in the service history " did think it needed it" isn't normally a good sign when buying a bike
.
Give it a go, it's one of the simpler engine things to do.
* feeler gauges come in two flavours imperial & metric, you'll need metric for your bike.
Cheers Mark.