[Sid Squid]

It's easier on a 1000 as the final drive to the cams is by gear, so you don't need to disturb the cam chain and tensioner, and re-timing is dead easy.

With all SV models, crack the turning plug when the engine is hot, if it won't move or starts to distort, get a suitable socket, 30ish mm, and give the plug a few sharp taps around it's edge, and also few similar taps around the hex, but not in it - it's very thin at the back. When you refit it, use some anti seize on the bit outside the 'O' ring that touches the case, which is where it corrodes and sticks. If your tool isn't a very good fit in the socket, (fnaar), use a rag or similar and put if over the hole and gently tap the tool into place - often helps if the socket has been distorted by a previous removal attempt. If it still won't come out cold chisel it round very carefully, and buy a new one - about a tenner as I recall.