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Old 12-07-18, 05:07 PM   #54
BigTon
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

Quote:
Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff View Post
There's never a need to have a car running if jumping a Motorcycle and as you've found out it can ruin components on the Motorcycle.If the extra passive power from the larger Car battery won't start the machine then starting the Donor car won't help.The fault on the Motorcycle needs to be fixed.

Because the internal resistance of the Motorcycle battery will be lower than the Donor battery as it has been depleted the extra current from the Alternator on the car will bypass it's own battery and shunt the current to the smaller and much less robust Motorcycle battery.The danger to the Motorcycle electrics will increase further if the Donor car is revved up
Lesson learnt

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bibio View Post
i'll stick my neck out here and say what i think has happened. i'll take a wild guess and say that the burnt out terminal is the red wire. now since the bike had a fault and broke down i'll say that the terminal was already on its way out. the reason for this is that the regulator in the RR is passing too much voltage or the rectification is collapsing and letting AC through, this is really bad news as the AC is at much higher amps. wiring, connectors and fuses dont care if its AC or DC but the terminals in connectors are specified to certain amperage be it AC or DC when the terminals go over their specified amps then they either melt, explode or in this case heat up causing the plastic around it to melt.
Your right! 2 years ago I thought I noticed the battery charging at 18v. But every time time I checked it after that it was at 14v so doubted my meter.
Then after a 150m ride, got home for 10 mins then headed to the shop. When I came out the shop the bike didn't have enough power to start (another occasion when jump leads came out). When I got home checked over again and this time it WAS charging at 18v! I have no idea how long this had been happening for so maybe that has caused the block to burn initially. I replaced the RR after that and all seemed fine... until this happened.
When the bike broke down I had rode maybe 30 miles. It must have been just deteriorating over time. Unless the new RR is also faulty?

Quote:
Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff View Post
Absolutely right.As connectors corrode over time and if not halted the surface area of the contacts reduces.The effect is exactly the same as if you say have 1.5mm 20 amp multi wire cable and each year it lost a strand.Eventually it cannot handle the current it was designed for and will start to heat up as it's resistance increases due it it's reduced diameter/surface area.

I've just been fitting a MOSFET R/R and found out something I've not seen noticed on any forum when I've been researching and that is that on my 1999 Curvy Suzuki fitted not just one HT Stator Connector but TWO!.

I've removed both from the Stator lines and the one on the Regulator wires so they are hard wired in now.

I've been making some web pages for it and also have now fitted a small PC cooling fan to the R/R just for good measure.

http://puttingoutfires.x10host.com/M...sfetUniRR.html

Unfortunately it looks like the over-voltage has ruined the Circuit board in the Tacho as it's become unreliable and the 4 year old battery is suspect so it's gone.I found an S set of clocks and bought them off eBay.I checked the part numbers and the clocks are the same so with luck I should be able to get it all sorted by next week.

Mosfet R/R is working as expected and running between 10-15 Deg C cooler with the the small fan.
I have a spare rolling frame with clocks, front fairing and headlights etc. I could have sorted clocks for you if i'd known.

Thanks for the info. Everyday is a school day
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