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Old 03-07-18, 12:59 PM   #12
Bibio
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Default Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start

have you checked the battery voltage when off then on? you need a "perfect" battery to test the electrical system, if your battery is dodgy then you will get dodgy reading. if you know the battery is old then best get a new one.

one of the problems with the curvy clocks is that they draw power directly from the battery/charging system. if someone has replaced the fuse for a higher rated then if jump starting the bike can cause a surge to the clocks, its rare though.

i suspect that you never checked the ignition switch to see if it was the problem first so you might have just wasted money there.

to test the electrical system you need a DMM with thin "needle" probes. using the wiring diagram you start with the main power from battery to the next component to check for power (12-13v) then from that component to the next so on and so on. next up you then systematically check each end of each connector for wire continuity. there is no quick fix.

you can ignore things like indicator and lighting circuits for the time being and concentrate on the power/starting circuits.

the symptoms your describing sound very like what happens when the RR goes open circuit. when this happens you get AC through the electrical system due to the rectifier diodes breaking down. your generator/stator generate AC voltage and your rectifier/regulator turns the AC voltage to DC voltage and then regulates the voltage to a more suitable DC voltage (around 15v).

wires and fuses dont care if the voltage is AC or DC but the electrical components do as they were designed for DC usage. supplying DC components with AC will fry internal circuity.

hope this helps.

Last edited by Bibio; 03-07-18 at 01:08 PM.
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