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Old 11-05-18, 07:51 PM   #27
machulnyy
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Default Curvy Cold Starting Needs Running Start

Quote:
Originally Posted by R1ffR4ff View Post
I couldn't get the videos to play in my Browser first time so I went back and downloaded them and then they would play.

It's almost definitely a carb issue and possible fuel in the engine oil/Hydro lock.

I had a similar issue on one of my Old Hondas with CV carbs.There's a set of circumstances whereby if the Floats have gone out-of-spec the Needle valves inside the carbs that they lift don't stop the fuel as it should when the the correct fuel height is reached.

Then if the engine happens to have been stopped with the inlet valves open and there is a fault with the Petcock as well fuel can drip into the engine and into the engine oil.As I said I had this happen and the engine would not turn over but I smelt fuel and when I took the oil filler cap off the stink was there and the oil was contaminated to hell.

If the engine had started I bet it would have been ruined in minutes.



As I already knew a lot about these carbs I took them off and cleaned and dressed the ends of the Float needle valves with some toothpaste(It's a tip in the Haynes for them) and reset the Float heights as they had gone out from 15.5mm from the perpendicular/Carb body which is the specs for the CX500.

I've not checked for the CV carbs in my SV as I've had no problems so far but will have a read later.




There's a nice blow-up here and it's parts 28/29 I'm talking about,

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/...les/carburetor


This would also account for the fuel I saw bubbling at idle in the video.


Note:Once I had fixed the carbs I ran some cheap 20w50 engine oil in the engine for a few mins and then dumped it and then did it again and dumped it.Then used my proper engine oil.

Yes a bit of faffing about but for the cost of a cheap gallon of oil well worth it IMHO and had no problems with the engine and carbs after that for thousands of miles.

BTW.B&M Supermarkets are doing a 10w40 semi synthetic engine oil for £12.99 for 4 litres you can use as a flush.

https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/...-oil-4l-334747


Cheers Riff.

I’m changing part 28 as we speak. 29 I didn’t get. Do you happen to know the correct needle height? I change it by adjusting the tab on the float, right?

I’ve cleaned the carbs with carb cleaner previously, don’t know how good of a job I did, as I’ve read some guys leave the jets soaking in carb cleaner for 3 days! I used carb cleaner spray and small bristles to clean the jet holes.

You say the engine would be ruined in minutes...well mine starts from time to time! And i rode to work and back a few times despite starting difficulties as shown in the vids... so I’m a bit lost as to what the actual diagnosis is...is it hydrolocked? The symptoms so far :
•oil smells of petrol
•petrol leaking from somewhere around the carbs and out of rear plug drain hole but not from the petcock or vacuum
•petrol spraying out of the piston valve that seeker’s tech said shouldn’t
•starting difficulties. Feels like it comes to a grinding holt when attempting to turn over. But after many attempts it eventually starts.

Currently am changing the carb needles and seats and some of the seals that came with the kit, although I’m pretty sure some of them are not right for my carbs which I’ll leave out

Will at some of that oil...I can use it in the bike right? Says is car oil...


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Last edited by machulnyy; 11-05-18 at 08:04 PM.
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