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Bibio · 10-07-18, 12:55 PM

then i would suggest that you take some time to understand the schematic a bit more.

it looks complicated but in reality its very easy. follow the coloured lines till you come to a connector/component then look at the connector/component for the route it takes through and out the other side. sometimes the colour of the wire changes so you need to follow that.

if you have a coloured printer then print the diagram out. get a highlight pen and highlight the wiring you have done, also mark down voltages as you go with power on/off. start from the battery and work your way out.

with fuses the power goes in one end (usually marked with the long line or no fuse at the junction)

with things like switches there are dots/circles with a "bar" connecting them. this is to tell you when things are on/off and what way the voltage flows.

as an example lets look at the ignition switch red wire. when the ignition switch is in the on position the red wire connects to the orange wire. when the ignition is off/lock then there is no power to anything, when the ignition is at park then the red connects to the brown.

so if you put the red probe of your DMM in the orange wire exiting the ignition switch and the black probe on the battery negative terminal there should be no power on the orange wire when the switch is off, when you turn the switch to on then you should get 12-13vdc on the orange wire.

if you get power where there should not be then disconnect the connector and probe the main loom (not the switch) orange wire with the red probe of your DMM. if you still get power then you have to probe deeper into the loom to find out exactly where you are getting the power from. its very very rare that you get reverse voltage and the most common is the battery being connected the wrong way round.. trust me i have seen people do it. or the negative system is shorting to a live.

10-07-18, 12:55 PM	#26
Bibio Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: here as devil's advocate Posts: 11,540	Re: Erratic ignition now no power, no start then i would suggest that you take some time to understand the schematic a bit more. it looks complicated but in reality its very easy. follow the coloured lines till you come to a connector/component then look at the connector/component for the route it takes through and out the other side. sometimes the colour of the wire changes so you need to follow that. if you have a coloured printer then print the diagram out. get a highlight pen and highlight the wiring you have done, also mark down voltages as you go with power on/off. start from the battery and work your way out. with fuses the power goes in one end (usually marked with the long line or no fuse at the junction) with things like switches there are dots/circles with a "bar" connecting them. this is to tell you when things are on/off and what way the voltage flows. as an example lets look at the ignition switch red wire. when the ignition switch is in the on position the red wire connects to the orange wire. when the ignition is off/lock then there is no power to anything, when the ignition is at park then the red connects to the brown. so if you put the red probe of your DMM in the orange wire exiting the ignition switch and the black probe on the battery negative terminal there should be no power on the orange wire when the switch is off, when you turn the switch to on then you should get 12-13vdc on the orange wire. if you get power where there should not be then disconnect the connector and probe the main loom (not the switch) orange wire with the red probe of your DMM. if you still get power then you have to probe deeper into the loom to find out exactly where you are getting the power from. its very very rare that you get reverse voltage and the most common is the battery being connected the wrong way round.. trust me i have seen people do it. or the negative system is shorting to a live.