Quote:
Originally Posted by Bibio
i personally use the top yoke nut as the final "pressure" setting. its not what the book says but its what works.
tightening headstock bearings is an art that is not easy to master but once you have done a few then it becomes second nature.
to do it properly you must get the front end off the ground without using anything connected to it so the front is "free air".
if you cant do that then a headstock stand is the next best thing.
trying to tighten headstock bearings with the front wheel on the ground is difficult as you cant "rock" the forks back and fourth to feel for the tell tale "click" or smoothness of the bearings in the races.
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Ok tx Bibio, sucking in information here.
I've made myself an overlock stand to raise the front already some time ago, it works with a 10mm rod that goes in a hole in the engine block. So all my headstock bearing-tensioning is with front wheel removed; I leave the forks in to have some mass/load on the stem to feel what's happening. Though I think maybe better remount frontwheel too to have some more mass? Anyway always when moving the head to the right there is more resistance than to the left; must be caused by wiring&cables still hanging around. Say when moving to the left takes 100g, to the right takes like 500g.
If I get the tension right this time I never never ever disassemble the headstock again.
But so if I understqnd well you just don't torque the top yoke nut to 90Nm, but just stop torqueing when the steering starts "hardening" again?