Quote:
Originally Posted by Bibio
my advice for what it’s worth. you would be better selling your bike and buying a naked. by the time you source all the parts it will become very expensive.
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Definitely the easiest way to do it.
However, if you’re motivated to do the work just because you want to do the work (and I can relate to that) then crack on.
Get a decent socket set.
Top yoke conversion won’t be difficult. Take your time, do your research, buy a torque wrench.
You might need longer cables for choke and throttle plus brake lines - depends how high and wide you want to go with the bars. I’d fit them then see how cables are looking. I’ve seen them rerouted through the frame but doesn’t look great IMO. Don’t pull the old choke cable out until you’ve got the new one - join them and you can use the old one to pull through the new. Download the workshop manual and buy more tools. [emoji3]
You’ve got loads of options for headlight. Mount it to the forks or there’s a handy lug on the front of the headstock you can use for a fixed set-up/old speed triple type arrangement.
Older Suzuki Bandit clocks will work and have the same speedo drive - if you’re not using that you’ll need to set up magnets and a hall sensor (loads of info for that here and elsewhere). You’ll still need to do a bit of wiring. I’d recommend using proper automotive connectors and pins. Buy a proper crimping tool.
You’ll have a lot of wiring loom to hide that lives inside the fairing. The naked loom is different and puts a lot of wires in the headlight bucket but that won’t work for the S loom. You can lose a bit of length when you’re rewiring the light and clocks but if you lift the tank you’ll see there’s room to reroute the front loom around the airbox and then out by the headstock. Get some loom tape and reusable cable ties. And more tools.[emoji23]
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