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northwind · 02-03-06, 05:43 PM

OK spec bikes have slotted needles so we don't need shims. In your case, I reckon bigger main jets would be better- just one size up, whatever that may be (stock jets are Mikuni; I can only think in Dynojet- plus, DJ jets are easier to buy. Really not sure what size is the equaivalent of the stock jets though)

You'll want to own either good mole grips or an impact driver (the sort you whack with a hammer, not the sort you run with an air compressor)- the bolts that hold the float bowl cover and the carb cables on are a great combination of soft and stuck. If I was doing someone else's carbs for the first time I'd also want to have some of that screw-grip stuff that they sell in Maplins, or some valve lapping paste to put in the screw head to improve grip. Probably the hardest part of the entire job is getting them out!

You can get the carbs right off the bike once the choke's disconnected- if you disconnect the cables at the control end rather thanthe carb, it's much easier. (I'd still say to remove the cables at the carb end once the carbs are off anyway- it's worth doing, they're not going to get any less stuck if you leave them alone.

Find 8x M5x10mm bolts before you do it, you're going to chew up at least one of those bolts...

It's not immesnely difficult to do- but you need patience and some competence with tools to do it right. The question is, are you sure it'll fix it? Do you have any more specific diagnosis than "bad fuel"?

02-03-06, 05:43 PM	#2
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,082	OK spec bikes have slotted needles so we don't need shims. In your case, I reckon bigger main jets would be better- just one size up, whatever that may be (stock jets are Mikuni; I can only think in Dynojet- plus, DJ jets are easier to buy. Really not sure what size is the equaivalent of the stock jets though) You'll want to own either good mole grips or an impact driver (the sort you whack with a hammer, not the sort you run with an air compressor)- the bolts that hold the float bowl cover and the carb cables on are a great combination of soft and stuck. If I was doing someone else's carbs for the first time I'd also want to have some of that screw-grip stuff that they sell in Maplins, or some valve lapping paste to put in the screw head to improve grip. Probably the hardest part of the entire job is getting them out! You can get the carbs right off the bike once the choke's disconnected- if you disconnect the cables at the control end rather thanthe carb, it's much easier. (I'd still say to remove the cables at the carb end once the carbs are off anyway- it's worth doing, they're not going to get any less stuck if you leave them alone. Find 8x M5x10mm bolts before you do it, you're going to chew up at least one of those bolts... It's not immesnely difficult to do- but you need patience and some competence with tools to do it right. The question is, are you sure it'll fix it? Do you have any more specific diagnosis than "bad fuel"? __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"