Soldering for Dummies

I need to solder some wires together, so that my heated grip on the throttle side actually works (the block connector has had too much corrosion and no longer allows a flow of current to the grip...). I figured if I just solder the wires together, then thats a oermanent and fail-safe solution (sort of).

I've not really done much soldering before, a little bit at secondary school under the guidance of my design and technology teacher, so for all intents and purposes I am a n00b

Could someone / manyone / anyone provide a How To guide for me With recommendations of a half-decent soldering iron. I understand the solder itself has the flux already in it, but should I still buy some seperate flux anyway (don't worry, I already know I dont want the acid-based flux, that'd ruin the metal!)?

When I solder the wires together, should I twist them together first? What sort of surface should I work on? I don'd want to accidentally solder my wires to my top yoke

After I have finished, will insulation tape wrapped around the soldered joint be enough to protect the wire core? I'll be soldering two pairs of wires, so I know i don't want the cores to touch (short circuit, right?)

Otherwise, maybe tehre is a better connector I can use? The block connectors oxford use seem to let in water easily from all ends

Thanks,

Matt

[the_lone_wolf]

Solder is affected more by vibration than crimped connectors, supposedly...

I've used simple maplins spade connectors behind the headlamp of the ADV without it causing electrical problems - if you're concerned then you could insulate the connections and fill the female connector with vaseline before fitting but I've only gone that far for the connectors under the engine where they'll get wetted repeatedly

[Viney]

As i have a C&G distinction in soldering!

Many ways of doing this. Twist wires togehter then heat up the wires with the soldering iron then introduce the solder to the hot wires, mabe just touching the solder on the iron to get it started, make sure that solder is all around the wores.

or

Twist each wire indivdualy, then tin them. This is heating the wire up then applying solder to each wire. You can then put the 2 wires side by side (Touching) then jut touch with the soldering iron until they join. This can be fiddly but handy if you want to do a straight line kind of thing.

Insulating tape is fine, heat shrink wrap is better.

Any £10 soldering iron will do, no need to spend heaps on one unless you are thinging of doing this a lot more. Normal solder has flux so dont worry about that.

As for surface, never sodler on metal as it will conduct heat. If you go for the twist method, you should be able to do it with the wires sticking up. Maybe clamop in a pair of pliers with a rubber band round them.

Good luck

Heat shrink is awesome. Only discovered it recently; having always used insulation tape in the past. I'll never go back!

Only one addition to what Viney says - make sure you are soldering onto clean wire i.e fresh wire that you have removed the insulation from.

And gas powered soldering irons FTW

(there are a few youtube vids kicking about, though they are pretty annoying as Americans have this stupid way of pronouncing "soldering".)

Thanks guys, viney that was very helpfull, I'll also try the trick with the rubber band

TLW, i suppose if i twist the wires together first then that wont allow the connection to be affected by vibration so much. The wires anr't securly attached to anyhting anyway, so they probably wouldnt suffer any ill effets from vibrations. I'll look at some connectors anyway because it would still be nice to have the option of being able to disconnect the grip (e.g. when the controller fails again )

I'l have a practise first with some scrap wire before attempting it on my bike

Matt

Originally Posted by lukemillar

Heat shrink is awesome. Only discovered it recently; having always used insulation tape in the past. I'll never go back!

Only one addition to what Viney says - make sure you are soldering onto clean wire i.e fresh wire that you have removed the insulation from.

And gas powered soldering irons FTW

(there are a few youtube vids kicking about, though they are pretty annoying as Americans have this stupid way of pronouncing "soldering".)

like, "sold-ring" or "sold-ing" or something like that

I read about the gas powered irons - might be overkill for what I want to do but you never know when you need this stuff...like a boy scout, be prepared

Ooo yea as for the heat shrink, I'll get some of that too

Originally Posted by Alpinestarhero

like, "sold-ring" or "sold-ing" or something like that

I read about the gas powered irons - might be overkill for what I want to do but you never know when you need this stuff...like a boy scout, be prepared

Ooo yea as for the heat shrink, I'll get some of that too

It's more like sawd-er-ing! Grrrr

I bought a gas powered one after using my dads and have never gone back. If you have to solder in situe (like on the bike) then not having a lead is really helpful. Just have to be careful with the temp as they can get pretty hot.

All as above, but if you find after a bit of time your soldering iron is not as effective as before then clear your tip. I tend to give it a light rub down before I start with some wet and dry, before you turn it on of course. Remember, tips are replaceable, if you get one from Maplins they have loads of spares.

Repaired my brothers Mac Book Pro power lead a couple of days ago, wish I'd know how to 'tin'. Perhaps I should have posted here first . Saved him £58 though, so that's good, but would have looked neater if I gone to the trouble of asking here first.

Nothing to add to help you the ASH.

[Bibio]

use bluetak to hold the wires while you solder them.