New Chain worries

Hello all
Tonight I changed my own chain and sprockets for the first time . I have used a cheapy chain set form Wemoto just to get me through winter then I plan on putting a proper one on .I Have torqued everything up properly and and used a lovely new motrax chain tool to peen the soft link . On the whole I am happy with the work that I have done its just one thing that niggles me .
Being a new chain I didn't bother looking for the tightest spot and just set the chain tension in the position it was in . I fastened everything up securely and stepped back to look at my work . I spun the wheel to see what it was like and noticed the chain "bouncing" a bit . I spun the wheel slowly checking the chain tension at various points and it is quite varying to say the least . It can be anything from 1cm to as much as 8cm of slack .
Being a new chain i did not expect it to have slack/tight spots , so is there something I am missing . Ive rang a mate and he says that because its just a cheap chain (£65all in) then it will probably need bedding in for 200 miles or so . If it was a D.I.D then it should be OK . But i dint want to spend that on a chain for winter . He went on to say that if i ride round the block a few times this will bed the chain in and once re-adjusted i will probably find it to be OK .
I would like the opinion of a few people on this as I'm not sure and may yet still go to the local garage tomorrow and get it re-installed correctly .
All the best

[DJ123]

have you rolled the bike along, even ridden it slowly so the chain has rotated a number of times. The back wheel and the adjustment needs to settle into the position its fixed in. After this then check it again. Remember when you are checking the chain slack it should be on a level surface and the bike on the side stand.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by xbox650

lovely .... motrax

You what? Lol.


Yes try bed it in a little bit but slacken it off first so you have 30mm of slack at the tightest point.

Buying a cheap chain, at all, is false economy IMO. You're better off buying a DID/Tsubaki and maintaining it properly. With a scottoiler it won't even notice it being winter.

[Sid Squid]

In years past I'd say it's quite normal - the various bits of the chain assembly will not, until you ride the bike and apply load, be in their final loaded situation. However I'm not aware of any manufacturers that nowadays don't preload chains during their manufacture. This isn't absolute of course - what make is the chain.

Do as your friend says and ride it around the block a few times, then recheck and adjust if needed, (I suspect it will be after the chain gets some load).

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah must say I've no real idea as I don't fit cheap chains

just to put this to bed .
I noticed that the tight spots seemed only to be there when the 42 stamped on the sprocket was at the top . The tension was always slackest when its at the bottom . I deduced that this meant the chain was fine and the problem lay with the rear sprocket or carrier .
I removed my rear wheel and re-fitted the sprocket and carrier making sure I got it 100% perfect . I rushed it last time and expected it to all line up . After donig this I have found the tension to be as close to even as makes no difference .
So next time I know to slow down and do a proper job .

[yorkie_chris]

I'd stop there and double check you haven't missed spacer out or got a knackered bearing.

Sprocket should be snug around boss on carrier, allowing no movement. Carrier should be snug on spacer and clamped with other spacer, no movement there either. Even if you put it together after 12 pints it should all clamp up square.