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#1 |
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Here is the amount of oil I removed that made my gear changes smooth.
![]() Below is the level it is left at. Be aware the bike wasnt perfectly level. I suspect it will be spot on. I might top it up with a tiny bit more to test. I removed the overfill by taking off the oil filter. I also used a abba stand to get more out. Looks like anything between 50ml to 100ml really makes a huge difference. ![]()
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 19-07-13 at 09:58 PM. |
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#2 |
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it should not make that much difference. as long as you can see a bubble in the glass then all is well. i would not run my bike with the level that low in your pic.
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#3 |
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What was bad about your gear changes? And where did you hear removing oil would help? I've never had a problem with mine other than when I half kick the lever
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#4 |
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Clunky got more difficult as the engine got warmer and trip longer. I will slap another cupfull in but after removing that much all the issues dissapeared.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#5 |
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i have had that experience to be honest couldn't explain why
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#6 |
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Whilst on the topic. my oil window is a bit cloudy. It's not the oil because I have recently done an oil and filter change. Is there an easy fix to make the window clearer ??
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#7 |
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define cloudy?
white milky, or not clear. white milky is moisture in the oil, not clear is you need to clean the glass. |
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#8 | |
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if its making a noise going into gear then that is what's supposed to happen, if its getting a lot of false neutrals then it's usually rider error in not letting the gear leaver come to rest between changes, e.g. keeping your foot either under or over the leaver when changing gear. even the slightest pressure on the gear leaver after changing gear can cause the selector fork in the gearbox to be slightly misaligned so will not engage the gear properly. the bigger the feet and stiffer the boot and the bigger the problem and a lot of riders do not realise that they are doing it. to see if it is rider error there is a simple test. change gear and then take your foot away from the peg (completely away like in mid air) then place back on peg once the clutch is out. replete this for several miles. if the bike changes gear no problem then simply adjusting the gear leaver to suit the rider usually rectifies it. if this does not rectify it it could be a clutch adjustment problem or a bent selector fork. |
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#9 |
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dont know how too much oil ,or running on the max level effects a sv,but in general suzuki make the best gearboxs,and i run all my bikes at or above the max,and have never had problems,also it seems some sv,s drink oil and if you run on the minimum level you are likely to run low on oil on a long run,and we all know what happens to a sv when its run low on oil
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#10 |
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it's true that the SV does not like to full a sump but this is when they are over filled as in you cant see a bubble in the sight glass. up to and slightly over the F mark is perfectly fine as long as there is a 'bubble' at the top. i don't know why this is but i suspect that too much oil causes pressure against the selector fork and doing so does not let it slide properly along its shaft due to the resistance of too much oil, or it could be that the gear cog synchromesh ends up having to much pressure. either way no bubble no joy.
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