Wiring info please.

[gadget]

Hey all, can any electrical gurus tell me what size wire would be ideal for my ... FH022aa reg rec direct to battery mod, and the new stator extension wires? Having so much trouble trying to find 12g cable anywhere local to me. Most suppliers want the sizes in mm and the amp ratings.
Thanks for any help and suggestion.

[SV650rules]

https://www.cse-distributors.co.uk/c...fo/table-4e1a/

You need 4mm2 and fuse it 30amps with an inline fuse holder like this - just cut the red wire loop and solder a ring tag on one end and solder and heatshrink the other fuse tail to your red cable from RR. Fuse the cable as near the battery terminal as you can but make sure it does not stop seat sitting down or some other interference. You can use next size down for stator extension as they carry less current.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/line-Standa...7343930&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.co.uk/30A-Standar...344317&sr=8-10

it is wise to put an overall heat resistant sleeve on the pair of direct to battery cables as they run close to rear cylinder, the sleeve will also stop cables rubbing through and shorting the frame or engine. It is a good idea on vehicle wiring to sleeve cables due to heat and movement.

https://www.amazon.com/heat-resistan...nt+wire+sleeve

[Grant66]

12awg is 2mm diameter which is good for 20A ish @12V

Not sure what the current on the stator SV wiring is but Google suggests 22A (or as high as 32A).

So 12awg seems a little small.

Doubt the SV outputs 32A so a 3mm wire puts you in the +30A range. This assumes the cable length is less than a metre. 4mm for a bit of head room.

What size are the wires Mr Suzuki uses?







Sent from an S20 using Tapatalk with that kin cr4p blocked

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by Grant66

What size are the wires Mr Suzuki uses?

The current rating of a cable is to a large extent how much temperature the insulation can stand, copper does not melt till above 1100degC. The current ratings in the IEE guide are for PVC insulation, normally good for around 70degC, if Suzuki used better insulation their cables can be small cross section, I know you can get teflon or silicone rubber insulated cables - expensive but good to over 200degC.

[gadget]

Thanks everyone for the input, good advice ...I was planning on heat shrinking all terminals as I make them up, i already have an inline battery cable which was rated at 75 amps so I'll downsize the fuse to 30 amps and I'm covered there. The stator wires from the bike side still have the Suzuki plug attached so I'll be only needing to make up 3 leads to connect between the stator plug and the upgraded rectifier, then I will have to make up the earth lead from the rectifier to the battery. It seems pretty straight forward tbh but just really need to know for sure of what wire size to use for each application. I read somewhere on here that peeps had used 12g but although I'm no electrical expert ... that does seem a bit underrated.
As suggested by a member here ... 4mm seem about right? I like a bit of overkill tbh but would like to get it right 1st time. Any and all further suggestions more than appreciated.

[embee]

You probably have a source sorted out, but this is a useful site
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/

[SV650rules]

You don't need to use 4mm for stator cables, 2.5mm will be ample... if you can get cable with better insulation temperature you could use 1.5mm

here is a useful conversion from American gauge to mm2

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/a...uge-d_731.html

12 gauge is about 3.3mm2 and 11 gauge 4.2mm2

[SV650rules]

I use a lot of this on electrical wiring on cars and motorbikes ( and satellite cable joints etc to make them proper waterproof) - it does not leave behind a horrible sticky mess or peel off when it gets hot ( you will have to cut it off the joint though as it 'amalgamates' into a solid piece by basically cold vulcanising together ). It comes in 19 and 25mm widths, I find the 19mm better for most smaller jobs. Just stretch it about 30% as you apply it, it is very tough once it is on, IMHO much tougher than heatshrink - but a little bulkier - OK if you have room - although I often use heatshrink underneath it ( belt and braces ).

https://www.toolstation.com/self-ama...ir-tape/p23876

[gadget]

Many thanks peeps for all the info, massively helpful. I've now sourced all the cables I need for the job, plus all the terminals and heat shrink, I was going to try to get the original plug for the r/r ... FH022BA but not even Eastern beaver has them! So ... as I make up the female terminals to go into each of the five pins in the r/r, is there anything I could use to (seal up) the terminals at the r/r (where the original r/r plug would have gone)? Ie ... some kind of non conductive silicone ? This would make it pretty much 100% waterproof and help support the terminals and vibration. Any suggestions?
Also... the stator wire connections on the r/r is pretty obvious but identifying which of the other two are LIVE and EARTH is eluding me, can't find any references to the wiring colours even when I search for the bike it was allocated to .... Yamaha MT10 2016.
Anyone know how to test for polarity ?

[SV650rules]

All silicone will be non conductive at the low voltages involved with RR. Personally I would just spray some ACF-50 in there and keep it topped up regularly to stop corrosion.