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23-11-06, 11:43 AM | #1 |
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re-springing a shock
I'm looking to re-spring the shock on my curvy - it's off an 06 zx10r which unfortunately has turned out to be notably softer at 8.3 kg/mm than the 04-05 model:
A link, like what would have been better to start with. I am an, ahem, fuller-figured sort of chap, so I could do with something a bit firmer anyone have any experience putting new springs on oem shocks? is it something I'm likely to be able to do myself or will it need specialist tools - eg spring compressors, etc ? |
23-11-06, 11:44 AM | #2 |
The Sick Man
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you would then need to have it revalved or the rebound and compression will be useless.
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
23-11-06, 12:10 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
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23-11-06, 01:29 PM | #4 |
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The opposite happened to me... bought a k6 gsxr shock hoping a softer less jumpy rear , and got a very stiff 9.4kg/mm shock :P
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23-11-06, 01:46 PM | #5 | |
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Wouldn't it be more cost effective just to get a different model shock??? and to flog yours?
Maxton will re-work shocks for you (if they are not a sealed unit I suppose). but to be honest I really don't think it is going to be cost effective to go that route ... Quote:
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23-11-06, 05:18 PM | #6 | |||
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http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...code=FLK4S0150 Quote:
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23-11-06, 05:39 PM | #7 | |
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All that aside, at the end of the day presuming you paid a fair price for your shock, you could probably sell and buy another without any financial loss ... not even £20 ... |
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23-11-06, 05:41 PM | #8 |
The Sick Man
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I went from a 450spring to a 650spring and the rebound was non existant even when on max so had to also be revalved.
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
23-11-06, 05:51 PM | #9 | |||
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I'm quite happy to concede that re-valving a race shock would be necessary & desirable, but for a cheapie oem shock - & with me riding it - I doubt the difference would be noticable Quote:
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23-11-06, 06:01 PM | #10 | |
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But if you want to remove the spring you will need some spring compressors. There is a lot of energy in a shock spring, so take what I am about to say as missadvice and get yourself the proper equipment ... Bad advice:- Get your ratchet straps .... 'ratchet' the rear end down on the bike/compress the shock ... get some more ratchet straps and use them on the spring, take out the slack. Then slowly release the strap holding the rear end down and remove the shock. It should stay compressed, common sense is then needed at every point as you now essentially have a loaded weapon ready to go off!! Refitting the new spring ... not sure how u r gonna do that hopefully they will ratchet down?? ... but this ratchet strap method worked on a car suspension i needed to compress once to change a balljoint, so ratchet straps can take quite a bit of force! |
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