False Neutrals

Ive been hitting false neutrals some where around third or fourth gear every now n then does anyone else have this problem it never used to happen maybe its me not shifting with enough enthusiasm

You get them from time to time mate. There is a reasonable explanation for it. I just dont know it.

[Biker Biggles]

Always a good idea to check the basic maintenence stuff first.
Is the chain in good nick,tensioned and lubed correctly?
Is the oil level right,and does it need changing?
Is the clutch cable and worm drive thingy adjusted right?
Is the gear lever properly lubed where it pivots on the footrest?

That lot normally sorts out any shifting hassles.

There is a number of reasons

Oil change is getting near due.
Your not selecting the gear firm enough.
You clutch push mechanism needs lubing.
Clutch cable needs lubing.
Clutch shift leaver need lubing.

The clutch push mechanism converts your pull of the leaver in to a push (it does have another name I can never remember (worm drive!)), it needs to be taken off and re-greased as its location by the front sprockets means it gets very mucky and stiff. This can lead to missed selects and a heavy clutch. As above it will also need occasional adjusting.

Clutch cable just needs lubing as it can lead to a heavy clutch, thus bad selects, and damaged/fraying cables.

Clutch shift leaver needs lubing as (I found out) there is a bush between the leaver and the foot peg mounting it is on. This can get full of grit and such not allowing the leaver to return correctly, causing missed and bad selects, if you can take it off and give it all a good clean.

And don't forget to adjust your gear lever DOWN using the little pushrod with the threaded ends. (one is a LHT the other is a RHT)

think its proberly me as ive just serviced her and changed my oil and filter i did take my rear sets off and cleaned them in the ultrasonic tank

[northwind]

If you can't adjust it out, you can always fit the detent spring, arm and shift star out of a K5 or later SV, they're based on the Factory Pro replacement part and give much more positive shifts. I like it myself, but then I've got lazy foot Costs around £50 for the parts I think. Very much a hardware fix for a software problem though, so I'd try and fix it by adjustment first before considering an upgrade, it shouldn't be neccesary.

Here my jargon-fu is weak... One thing to check for is that the 2 parts that attach to either end of the shift rod are parallel (one is part of the lever, the other attaches to the selector rod which enters the engine). If they're not, then there's a gearing effect and it can mean that you need a bit more foot for the same result. It's easier to understand if you look at it and play about with it, while thinking of steam trains.

That's incomprehensible gibberish isn't it. See if you can work it out

What the hell are you talking about?

[northwind]

Hard to say, isn't it. I was a bit tired there.

Ah, perfect:



At either end of the rod, there's the rubber boot with the wee rose joint thing in it... The one at the rear attaches to the lever, the one at the front attaches to that wee arm thing (not circled in red) Basically, if the rod gets lengthened or shortened too much, or if you fit rearsets or raising plates which are too far back for the rod, you can end up with the front arm being at too much of an angle- if it's not more or less parallel with the bit on the lever which attaches to the shift rod, then you can get issues because you get differences in the amount of movement.

If you take it to extremes, suppose you've lowered the lever til it points straight down, using the adjusters on the rod. The part of the lever that pushes against the rod is now at about 90 degrees from vertical. Now, if you move the lever to shift up, the rod actually only moves a couple of mm. If the front one's vertical, then that means you're only actually turning the rod a degree or so, not enough to shift gear.

But, if they're both parallel, the same movement of the lever creates the same amount of rotation at both ends, so the same movement of the lever has a much bigger result at the working end.

That's just slightly clearer. Still not very clear.

Oh aye, and check the front arm, make sure it's tight on the selector rod- I've had that come loose and it makes gear selection tricky with the free play.

I'm jealous how come your dog bones are so clean and the lower bracket isn't mines the opposite I'm just cleaning my dog bones now