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#1 |
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I'm looking to do my servicing myself, it's due the 11k service (I missed the 7.5k one
![]() most important question is, how important is the pointy equivalent of balancing the carbs, can't remember what its called, needs a vacuum gauage though and I don't have one and probably couldn't use it if i did. could I skip that and take it into a dealership/garage somewhere just to get that done at some point? Assuming I do it myself I need to replace: Air Filter (looking at getting a K&N if people think they are worthwhile?, bearing in mind i've got a full Akra on it now) Spark Plugs (from what I've read normal NGK ones are fine? no need for high end ones) Oil Filter - what do I need to look for, are they all the same thread etc? any benefit from hi flow ones? should I be getting branded etc? Engine Oil - what is the best reasonable value oil I should be putting in it? I've noticed most people suggest any 10w 40 motorcycle oil should be fine but wondered if branded would be worthwhile? Front Sprocket I'm debating dropping to a 14t cog but wondering if I'm best holding off on that till after winter, am I just increasing my chances of binning it, won't get to use the benefits when the weather is bad, thoughts? Chain again, from what I can gather they are much of a muchness unless you are racing or abusing it, I suspect mine is mostly average use and my maintenance is getting better so a standard o ring chain has been recommended before, DID or Tsubaki, will either make much difference? or should I just get the best value option? most of the servicing apart from the above replacements which I think I have in hand (with a little help from the .org ![]() seems to be checking mostly, I have the Haynes manual and it all looks straightforward enough. The only bit I haven't done much with yet are the brakes, I saw the front and rear wheel removed when my tyres got swapped so I kinda get how they go together and work etc but not sure what I should be doing. I think the Haynes covers how best to check them, from what I can gather there are wear markers or is it just thickness I should be looking for? that I need to check any tips or advice on that much appreciated. Also, how long should pads last? are they likely to be due for replacement by 11k miles? obviously only a guess but any thoughts appreciated Just for info: It's a pretty much stock K6 sport, a year old and 11k miles. had the usual run in service and the 4000 miles one The only mod of any consequence is the Akra exhaust, other than that standard. Anything I've forgotten? many thanks for any help/advice. |
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#2 |
Noisy Git
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Whether your pads needs replacing is a question of how much you use them and how good a nick calipers are in.
Best value chain is definately not the cheapest. Is yours already worn out? My OEM one lasted 19k
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#3 |
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It's not been the best cared for, I recently cleaned it off and re-oiled it and its much better but think it might need swapping, previously it was just getting more lubricant applied without being cleaned. Maybe not though I guess, will try and check for tight spots, haven't noticed much difference going around it, it did have a real stiff link in it but that seems to have ironed itself out now. Its much easier to maintain now I've got a paddock stand.
And of course I meant to mention the rear sprocket in the replacement when I do do the chain, I've already sourced one of those though. |
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#4 |
Noisy Git
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Front sprocket you definately need a good impact wrench or cracking bar, they can be stubborn.
Hang on a minute you've done 7k miles since last service? I'm sure it should have had some fresh oil before now. If you're doing lots of mileage (using it for long periods at a time) and stretching the service intervals out like that then I'd advise a full synth oil, I use the motul 5100 which is ester based synthetic.
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat Last edited by yorkie_chris; 20-10-08 at 11:22 AM. |
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#5 |
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I didn't intend to stretch the service period but I was just thinking the other day I really need to get the 7.5k done as it was getting way past it and realised it was due for its next one, I don't do long runs, my daily commute is 14 miles each way, plus 5-6 for lunch and a run out every now and again of around 130 miles, but it adds up I guess, will have a look for that oil now, thanks for that, anything to give it a helping hand against my poor maintenance heh.
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#6 |
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Air Filter - BMC, washable and will last longer than the bike.
Spark Plugs - I always use NGK, the 800 has Iridium NGK's but I can't really tell if there is a difference in any aspect. Oil Filter - Go for a genuine replacement, no performance benefits are to be made with oil filters but the OEM stands up the best to corrosion. Engine Oil - Any 10w40 motorcycle will do, I use Castrol but it doesn't mean it is any better than the rest. Front Sprocket - Keep to OEM, add to the rear first and keep to steel sprockets. Chain - OEM is a great chain, have a look on B and C Express for other makes a sprocket sizes. |
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#7 |
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JT sprockets are OEM, which can be had in steel in other sizes. I agree that it's better to add teeth to rear, as that doesn't reduce chain life.
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#8 |
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I wouldn't replace service intervals with using a better quality oil. IE, its best to use a cheaper oil and change it often. I used the 10 40 stuff from Hein Gericke with a filter it cost about £22.
A nice touch I noticed when I had mine serviced was that they took out the brake pins and copper greased them. |
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#9 |
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A DID chain from Busters is only about £60 with steel sprockets.
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#10 | |
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