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#1 |
Noisy Git
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Headlight is only working intermittently.
Stationary it's fine, get above 10mph and it'll cut. Wiggling the loom and all wiring around does not recreate the problem. Neither does revving it at a standstill. Hi and low beams are both affected. Giving the brakes a tap usually makes them flash, you have to make the front end dip for this to work (so it doesnt appear to be an earthing issue that the front brake light switch bypasses somehow) Has anyone had similar experiences? I'm currently looking through the horrible mess of wiring for the problem. Time for another rewire in the new year methinks.
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#2 |
The Sick Man
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how have you mounted the balasts?
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#3 |
Noisy Git
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Cable tied to the frame with some foam tape in between. Thought that it could be vibration so it with it them loose. No change.
Only one ballast for me (naked bike) so can't swap to eliminate that as a possibility.
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#4 |
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You could put in a normal bulb though, to elimate the ballast. Thats assuming your HID kit is like mine, where i can do that easily.
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#5 |
Noisy Git
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I could, but owing to a defect in my head, when I fitted the HID I shortened that part of the loom back.
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#6 |
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Hah. Erm.. Use a halogen, new h4 plug and some spade connecters then? Easy job if you have them handy.
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#7 |
Noisy Git
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Aye I've got some kicking about. Will give it a go. Either that or wire HID to permanently on dip and see if it works...
Gah.
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#8 |
Noisy Git
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Right I've just had the ballast out, and shaking it, rattling it against frame, hitting it with things does not cause the light to go out.
From the fact that the light comes back on when tapping the brake that says loose wire. Why can't I find a loose wire...
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#9 |
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loose bulb?
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#10 |
Noisy Git
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Don't think so, it's a capsule so uses a very different fitting on the bulb to a H4.
Right have swapped the feed to the main/dip switch from the headlight wire to the sidelight wire (the clock backlights are steady when running). So should have a continous feed to that point.
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