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#1 |
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Some photos from the weekend.
![]() Plenty of.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Plenty of this in the Clio Cup ![]() Mansell ![]() Couple of favourites ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Yes that is Gravel all over the floor ![]() The new Megane RS ![]() Renault R28 F1 Car Clio Cup Formula 3.5's Megane Cup Show Cars Little bits Its goodbye from me.... ![]() And it's goodbye from him ![]() |
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#2 |
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excellent photos
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#3 |
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Nice photos!
I was there... F1 cars a bloody loud! First time I'd seen one in person! The Meganes looked very fast too! |
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#4 |
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Nice shots with cars mate, where you panning the camera ? my camera allows for fast sports shots so I tend too pick a spot for the best shot if you will then start firing away before that point and follow the camera through, if you want to do more fast sports shots a monopod is a must, also try to islolate the background/foreground from the shot by selecting a wide aperture say f/4 this will give you a narrower depth of field and a fast shutter speed at the same time, the trade off though is that the subject will spend less time in the optimum focal zone, in other words it will pop in and out of focus quicker than it would at say f/8 or f11, a common fallacy is that you need a big zoom and fast apeture to do sports shots properly, it certainly helps but you dont need it, you can get some cracking sports shots with a 50mm lens, have a walk up and down the pit lane if acess is allowed and try anfd get some candid shots as well, dunno if you are getting an slr or a compact mate, but if you get an slr invest in a circular ploariser it will cut down on reflection and saturate youe colours a bit as well, stick with it though.
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#5 |
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Using this mate...http://www.cameras.co.uk/specs/fuji-finepix-s9600.cfm
I was panning the camera for the drive by shots. So what your saying at f/4, gotta be quick with the shot to not lose focus? I just normally leave it on Auto Focus... SLR will be an investment in the future, I got this camera because it was cheap enough for me to play with and learn from. |
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#6 |
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you could stick the camera at say f/4, set your iso speed at 400, the f/4 aperture will give you a narrower depth of field and the higher iso speed will give you more chance to grab a sharper shot, use the highest quality image you can, so if you have a RAW converter photo software use that if not use high quality jpeg, if the cam has a continous shoot mode that will help for a burst of shots but you may need to give the camera time to write to the sd card, mainly its about just having a go and see what works for you.
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#7 |
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That sounds cool thanks mate
![]() I think I was setting my ISO as low as possible. |
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#8 |
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btw you may find if you have a sports mode on your cam it might have a focus system whereby it will track an image and keep it in focus as it comes in to view and out of shot again, you normally have it set so that it focuses on the dead centre of your viewfinder, mainly its all about practise and finding what suits you best.
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#9 | |
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![]() Cheers mate ![]() |
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#10 |
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Oh yeah and a good rule of thumb is if you are using your lens at longer focal lengths is this, if the lens is at say 100mm make sure your shutter speed is faster than that, say 1/125 sec or 200mm say 1/250 sec, that way camera shake should hopefully be eliminated, in theory anyway.
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