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#1 |
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1999 sv650sx. The rear pins wont budge, have removed caliper & drilled blind side & tried to punch them out, heated up caliper around pins 1st. They aint moved at all. Can anyone give me ideas to help. Also why would one pad be completly worn (outside one) & other hardly worn? Any ideas welcome. Pete
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#2 |
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one pad dragged? Disc problems caused it too?
When was the last time the caliper was looked at? Other wise it's cut and new one time. IIRC you can get a new pin in titanium for £8. |
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#3 |
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Good afternoon.
The dreaded stuck pins eh! Done a 'few' of those myself. If it wont come out after drilling the blind side, you'll have to remove & split the caliper. Then you can apply a touch more force. By the sound of it your caliper is due an overhaul anyway, this is probably why you have uneven wear on the pads. Cheers. |
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#4 |
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Yep, you need to split the caliper, mine were stuck and was the only way of getting them out.
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#5 |
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i have had 3 useful replies.thankyou 'the fallenangel' spanner man & arcdef. I am going to have another bash at it becouse i have to do things on a budget i will price the seal kit which i heard is expensive, & if it is more than £40 i will be getting a second hand caliper just to get the bike on the road again. I have had the bike 1 year & heard a scraping noise from rear brake,& 1 pad was completly gone & it was the backing plate scraping. But bearing in mind what spanner man said that the pad wear might be a sign that the caliper needs an overhaul i might chance a 2nd hand 1.
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#6 |
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you dont need new seals to give them an overhaul, all you need is some elbow grease, oh and some red rubber grease lol, but generally unless the seals are all cracked then they should be ok to re use, saying that its not much more than £10 for a set.
Google wemoto, great company for spares. |
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#7 |
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have you tried leaving them in some penetrating lubricant fluid for a few days? My dad worked for 2 hours on my rear brake pins and finally got them out, lots of mole-grip wiggling action
The next bike I get will recieve a brake caliper strip, grease and re-build right away, even if its a brand spanker. Its a good idea to pop the pistons out, clean everything inside and then re-assemble; if the seals arnt shot, then you can apparently put them in some boiling hot water for a few minutes which *can* replenish them (i heard this from yorkie chris and i think also sid squid, both of whom have more than a little bit of knowledge!). Get some of the rubber grease for the pistons...manufactures say to use some brake fluid around the pistons before you put them in, but this is a useless practice! Rebuild the calipeors correctly and then each year, you can simply pop the pistons out, clean, bit more rubber grease, re-assemble. It'll take 20 minutes instead of...oooo...a couple of weeks (waiting for new parts etcetc) ![]() Last edited by Alpinestarhero; 25-07-09 at 07:05 PM. |
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#8 |
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If you've got a bench vice your laughing-I've found the easiest way is to split the caliper and then tighten up the vice with the pins in the jaws and twist the caliper-takes minutes-when you rebuild use plenty of copper grease on the pins and the bolts.
Husky |
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#9 |
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bench vice, butain blow torch, mole grips...
but then I'm a Tank mechanic... if it doesn't budge use a bigger hammer... No, In all seriousness, Get new pads and a seal kit, split the calipers and overhaul them. reassemble use neverseize or copper greese on the pins... NO WHERE NEAR THE SURFACE OF FRICTION PADS OR BRAKE DISKS / ROTORS ... and a tad on the rear of the brake pads... hope you get it sorted soon.
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#10 |
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i have decided to mix 'n' match some of the ideas put to me on this. My mate has a vice.& wil check out wemotto for cheap seals. Thanks to All. Pete
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