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#1 |
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It seems I may not need a new clutch basket, more just new clutch plates. Im looking on teh wemoto website
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Suzuki/S...2_SX_SY/99-02/ and listed are steel plates, EBC friction plate kit and so on so forth. What do I need to replace the clutch plates? Steel plates and friction plates? Bit confused and me dad is busy |
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#2 |
Noisy Git
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Pull clutch out and measure thickness vs the specs in manual.
What are symptoms of clutch problem?
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#3 |
No, I don't lend tools.
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Friction plates if they're worn, steels if they're distorted.
Put the existing steels on a flat surface and ensure they've not gone wiggly.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#4 |
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Not done that many but have only had to replace the friction plates in the past to cure clutch slip.
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#5 |
Noisy Git
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If he thinks basket is worn then it could be grabbing. That suggests a notched basket
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#6 |
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Before anyone does suggest, I have corrected the chain tension, and correctly adjusted the clutch worm-drive, with lubrication on all the right places.
The symptoms are notchy gear changes, (inability to select neutral after slipping the clutch (say when filtering slowly uphill then coming to a stop, or moving a short distance and then stopping and trying to engage neutral). Sometimes, when the engine is cold, I will ride along in first gear then stop for a junction. When I pull the clutch in, the bike still drives forward, albeit like the clutch is somewhat slipping. There is no actual slipping of the clutch when its engaged (although my dad asked me to find out the prices incase they do need changing), and my dad is hoping the clutch basket dosn't need changing (he see's £230 for a new one as expensive, but it goes for 40,000 miles then thats 0.575p per mile! cheaper than fuel!). We'll see when he gets in there. I think it is the basket becoming notched, but of course its hard to tell without looking. I don't have the worlds nicest gear changes anymore, and all this has happened since my accident in may last year, the bike was on its side for a few minutes, soaking the clutch in oil. Then it was not run for 8 weeks. An oil change helped matters, but the problem has come back recently ![]() Sid Squid - thanks, that is easy and simple to remember ![]() |
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#7 |
Noisy Git
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Sounds like basket or a warped steel.
If the basket is notched then smooth them out, might cure it temporarily. Then you have found your problem. It takes <5 minutes to get into the clutch. Open it up and av a gander. It is a wet clutch ![]()
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#8 |
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lol, yea thats true. But isnt keeping it submerged in oil for ages bad? I'm wondering if there is any sort of gunk build-up that could have caused anything to happen. I've been waiting a while to get a to a point where I actually need to sort out the clutch. Having to turn off the engine to get it into neutral then get the engine back on before putting on my gloves is a sure sign something needs doing
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#9 |
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nope, clutch needs oil! thats why you soak new friction plates in oil before fitting them. your clutch is dragging, i.e. not removing the drive between the plates when you operate the lever. as mr. chris says this is most likley due to a grooved basket or warped plain plates.
grooves in the basket will catch the plates so they dont move apart properly when you pull your clutch lever in. warped plates will occupy more space laterally and similarly not disengage properly. crack it open and have a look. |
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#10 |
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on an unrelated note, i dont like how this guy
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