Air pressure sensor

Recently my bike has been misfring and running on one, i have now sorted the running on one, but im sure there is still a misfire, if i hold the revs any where (certainly while in neutral) there is a lot of popping and banging going on and recently my fuel light came on at 70 miles and by the time i filled up i had done 80 miles and put in just over 14 litres, now my riding hasnt changed at all and i usually get 100 miles to 12 litres.

Now i have read the air sensor can cause bad fueling and doesnt show up a fault code when faulty, if i unplug the sensor i get the FI light come on but the bike doesnt appear to run any different, should it?

Ive stuck new plugs in, checked the coils and ht leads although the front coil is a right pita to get to and i havent had it out and inspected it, what else should i start looking for, should i also wait untill my next fill up before i bother with the air sensor?

Thanks

Check for any air-leaks; split hoses, perished rubber between the throttle body and the engine, that sort of thing

I knew there was something else i was meant to do last night

Thanks for the reminder, will have to do that tomorrow now as i dont want to spend another night in a cold workshop with a bad back, trapped between two bikes with about a 30cm wide space to move in

put here in dealer mode and see if you have any codes ! popping/ banging is normally a air leak check all rubber boots and sensor's on air box little vac pipes and the like my sv thou loosened the pair system from the air box and that made it pop terribly

Originally Posted by Holdup

I knew there was something else i was meant to do last night

Thanks for the reminder, will have to do that tomorrow now as i dont want to spend another night in a cold workshop with a bad back, trapped between two bikes with about a 30cm wide space to move in

I know what that feels like, I've been trying to do bits on my bike when i've been at my mum and dads...he;s got three bikes in his garae, and a bloody sofa!

Found it



Basicly the tube from part 20 (Vaccum chamber) wasnt connected to the sensor (part 16) now its connected the bike has stopped popping when held at any rev

SV650S K4.

Had the bike de-restricted in a dealers after 2 years. Was running good before.
All well until the mechanic connected the air pressure sensor to the throttle body vacuum. Then back cylinder started popping and banging and stayed that way even when vacuum was disconnected from sensor. No F1 fault comes up unless sensor is disconnected. Over 12 hours of testing, including full Suzuki diagnostics have not identified problem. Have tried new sensor, complete new throttle body assemblies, and new EMS box. Fault persists. Mechanic says fault is 'impossible' and should affect both cylinders if not in EMS or throttle bodies. The only thing left is to try replacing the whole wiring loom (expensive!). The mechanic has diconnected the sensor and crimped off the vacuuum pipe and the bike seems to run well.

Does anyone know what bad effects this might have? Or better still, what could be the fault that causes connecting the sensor to shut off the rear cylinder?

Originally Posted by reg.morris

SV650S K4.

Had the bike de-restricted in a dealers after 2 years. Was running good before.
All well until the mechanic connected the air pressure sensor to the throttle body vacuum. Then back cylinder started popping and banging and stayed that way even when vacuum was disconnected from sensor. No F1 fault comes up unless sensor is disconnected. Over 12 hours of testing, including full Suzuki diagnostics have not identified problem. Have tried new sensor, complete new throttle body assemblies, and new EMS box. Fault persists. Mechanic says fault is 'impossible' and should affect both cylinders if not in EMS or throttle bodies. The only thing left is to try replacing the whole wiring loom (expensive!). The mechanic has diconnected the sensor and crimped off the vacuuum pipe and the bike seems to run well.

Since this tread seems to be dead, I went to the SVRider website where there was a thread about a bike that would run only with the IAP disconnected. Like mine.
To cut a long stort short the dealer had also adjusted my bike's valve timings when it went in to be de-restricted. It seems they managed to put the cams in the front cylinder back 360 degrees out. The bike ran fine, but the IAP detects intake stroke in the front cylinder and the EMC uses this information for the spark (this was now 360 degrees out relative to the rear cylinder). This caused the ignition sequence to be 360 degrees out and killed the rear cylinder. See thread below for the whole story.
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127683