Reverse bleed procedure?

[muzikill]

Ive got the whole of my k3 to do tomorrow. Nice new goodridge brakelines fitted and calipers overhauled. Front is a one hose up to the reservoir. Tips on rear one to eliminate an air bubble at the 'u' bend before the reservoir appreciated too.

Done a search and it's all 'frustrated' type threads!

I was just reading this cos I'm considering braided lines

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/...s_brake_lines/

Hope it helps

[Gremlin]

Just done my braided lines. I read that if you do this incorrectly you can blow out your piston seals, so I bled them the conventional way. When I found the front brake lever was travelling close to the bar I tapped the calipers and lines with the handle of a hammer starting and the bottom and working my way up the lines and to the master cylinder. On tapping tube that connects the resevoir to the master cylinder I got bubbles in the resevoir and a firm brake lever. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[timwilky]

Invest in a vacuum brake bleeder, makes bleeding the longest lines a doddle.

[muzikill]

thanks guys... lets see how i get on today.

[muzikill]

Originally Posted by Gremlin

Just done my braided lines. I read that if you do this incorrectly you can blow out your piston seals, so I bled them the conventional way. When I found the front brake lever was travelling close to the bar I tapped the calipers and lines with the handle of a hammer starting and the bottom and working my way up the lines and to the master cylinder. On tapping tube that connects the resevoir to the master cylinder I got bubbles in the resevoir and a firm brake lever. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Im doing this after a brake overhaul & with new pads. So in effect its almost like a whole new system again. I will take my time (like i usually do). Pretty sure the reverse bleed will work. Im just wondering wether i should 'prime' each caliper 1st. eg. push brake fluid through from the bleed screw to the hole where the banjo screws into, but keep the banjo loose until the fluid comes out then torque it. I'm sure i read that this was a good method to use for the rear considering there are areas wher the air can trap due to the 'snake' like path the hose takes up to the reservoir.

Originally Posted by hel

Not all calipers have their bleed nipples at the highest point on their anatomy. This means that if there is a small pocket of air trapped above the nipple it will be hard to remove (air always goes to the highest point of the area it is in) and make the system spongy. You can get around this by taking the caliper off and making sure the nipple is at the highest point but remember to put a spacer in between the pads to stop the pistons popping out and making it easier to refit the caliper.

Some nice advice from the hel site. I think i'd try this rather than attempting to prime it.