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#1 |
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The last few days I've been working on my bike getting it ready for its MOT later this month. I've pretty much done everything that needs to be done, I just need to replace the chain. I'm half way there, I've cut my old chain off with an angle grinder and my new chain is waiting to go on, but I don't have a chain riveting tool. They aren't cheap either, the cheapest on Ebay are £33 with 5-7 days delivery.
It's a long shot, but it's worth a try. Does anyone have a chain riveting tool so I can fit my chain that I can borrow for a few days? I'll pay P&P. With funds being squeezed, it would save me buying something for £30 odd quid that would only get used once. So if anyone out there has one laying about that wouldn't mind lending me it, drop me a PM and I'll be forever grateful! Thanks ![]() |
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#2 |
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people don't like lending tools m8.
better idea is to use a split link when you take it for the mot take the rivet link with you and ask them if they can rivet it for you. if you use a split link the closed end goes in the direction of travel. |
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#3 |
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I dont know why people do this, especially when doing the sprockets along with it. Change the sprockets refit the current chain and ride in to a garage and ask them to do it. Shoudl'nt take more than 15mins for them & less than £20 on your part.
There's a way certain chains can be fitted using the two hammer method. You'll find that a few people will NOT send their precious specialist tools to people who arent established regulars either.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#4 |
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you'd stand a better chance if you had your location in your profile and asked if someone local to you had one, as said not many are going to post tools off to people they don't know.
Cheers Mark.
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#5 |
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I always fit my own chains, never use split links, and I haven't got a "proper" riveting tool either. It's dead easy to do with a pair of molegrips, an 8mm nut, something heavy that you can feed through the back wheel and rest against the back of the link (I use a length of 2" square steel bar) a cold chisel and a hammer.
Put the new chain on the bike and put the link in remembering to grease the O rings. Put it in so that the open side of the link is on the ouside, ie: away from the wheel. Press the side plate on with your fingers at first, you should be able to squeeze it hard enough to just stay in place. Then adjust the molewrench so it just pinches the link, and use it to squeeze each pin in turn and tightening the molewrench a fraction at a time so you slowly and evenly squeeze the side plate on. There will come a point when the end of the pin is flush with the outside of the side plate so now put the nut over the end of the pin and continue as before. The secret is to do it very gradually only tightening the molewrench a fraction each time. Don't go to far, you don't want to crush the O rings, you just want it snug. If you're not sure turn the wheel so the link is off the rear sprocket and then just move the link back and forth a few times. Once you have the side plate on far enough position the link on the rear sprocket and place the dolly against the back of the link. If one of the wheel spokes gets in the way rotate the back wheel a few times so the chain makes a complete circle back to where it was, and hopefully the spoke will no longer be in the way. With practice you can put your knee against the dolly, but for the first time get a mate to hold it firmly against the link. Then take the chisel and put it across the centre of the end of the pin, and give it a sharp tap with the hammer. Turn the chisel 90 degrees and repeat, what you want is in effect a cross on the end of the pin. This will spread the end of the pin ever so slightly and effectively rivet it over. Remember it was an interference fit beforehand, it just needs the slightest of spread to secure it. Repeat for the other pin. Job done. If you want to be double sure after putting the cross in the end of the pin give it a few further taps with just the hammer, this will flatten it a tad more. Last edited by Red Herring; 22-03-12 at 01:36 AM. |
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#6 |
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Ace reply, now ive got to spend the next few hours visualising it
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#7 |
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Good job with that guide. This is the sort of info that is invaluable if broke or in an emergency.
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#8 |
No, I don't lend tools.
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To rivet use a ball bearing and a 'G' clamp.
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#9 |
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#10 |
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So where are you based Fifteen15?
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